Sewing & Tailoring

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Websites:

The World Wide Quilting Page presents "Quilting How To's" Directions for many different quilting techniques. Kind of slow loading, but hey – it’s free and there’s some good stuff here. Block Piecing - Beautiful quilts begin with accurately pieced blocks. Foundation Piecing - An easy, accurate way to create quilt blocks. Rotary Cutting - Cut the drudgery, get those pieces cut quickly and accurately. Speed Piecing - Piecing quilt blocks in less time. Appliqué - How to appliqué by hand and by machine. Hand Quilting - How to get those small, even stitches. Machine Quilting - Create a masterpiece in a fraction of the time. Settings - Ideas for putting quilt blocks together. Binding - Finishing the rough edges. Basting - Holding the quilt "sandwich" together. Yardage - How much fabric do you need. Drafting - Making patterns, changing blocks sizes. Image Transfer, Fabric Dying &Painting - Putting pictures on fabric. Quilt Care - The best way to take care of antique and new quilts Water Color and Color Wash Quilts Pressing - Often over looked, pressing can give a quilt a professional finish or spell disaster.

Lily Abello's Sewing Resource Guide Your Guide To Over 695 Sewing-Related Resources on the Internet! Just too many to research right now. Help me out, folks!

Tools:

Thread 101 If you've ever been confused about thread, this site is a wealth of information.

What You Ought To Know About Sewing Machine Needles Educational information that should answer any question you have about sewing machine needles. [link recovered 4/30/11]

Bra Closures, Rings, Slides, and Hooks Sew Sassy's selection at great prices for all bra hardware. They also offer Finishing Accessories and underwires.

Wool and Wool Blends. This NebGuide contains information about buying and sewing wool and wool blends. [PDF link recovered 4/30/11]

Clone Yourself A Fitting Assistant by David Page Coffin: Every sewer needs a dress form. Here are four fast, cheap (and amusing!) ways to make your own.

Machine-Needle Know-How— by Lydia Morgan: There are lots of needles to choose from. Insure a project's success by selecting the right one.

A Handy Chart of Fusible Interfacings— by Ann Steeves: Before you cut and apply an iron-on stabilizer, you need to choose the right type

Tools for Topstitching— by Jane Conlon: For gorgeous stitches, select the best thread, needle, and presser foot for the job

Five Must-Have Tools— by Barbara Emodi: These simple, inexpensive items make sewing easier and more enjoyable

At Last, the Perfect Thimble— by Samantha Brenneman: Here's a comfortable, custom leather thimble you'll enjoy making and wearing

Sewing Machine Maintenance A well-made sewing machine-traditional or serger, new or old, used often or only occasionally-will sew perfectly for many years if it is given proper care. It may need to be adjusted or a part may need to be replaced, but a sewing machine that is given proper maintenance and cleaned regularly seldom actually "wears out." See also: Checklist of Common Machine Troubles and Buying a Sewing Machine

Techniques:

Sewing Sleeves or (PDF Version) Sleeve styles that are popular vary with fashion. Sleeves may be set-in, raglan, kimono, dolman, etc., etc. But whatever the style, there are some guidelines that will help you determine how the sleeve should look.

Sewing Shortcuts The ready-to-wear industry uses many shortcuts in mass production of fashions. Pattern companies feature shortcut ideas in instruction sheets. You may use several shortcuts you have developed through trial and error. Or, perhaps a friend has shared a shortcut idea with you...

Sewing Prose: Kids Sewing Lessons A program that breaks every step of sewing down in to simple understandable directions.

Gathers A brief but excellent write up with diagrams for creating perfect gathers.

Easy (And Perfect) Welt Pockets A great write up to help take the mystery out of making welt pockets

Sewing In a Zipper— by Celeste Percy: Tips for installing centered, lapped, and invisible zippers

Power Sewing: Choices and Techniques for Binding— by Sandra Betzina: Add a lively touch to jacket and vest edges with these options for binding

Bag Your Jacket Lining— by Sandra Millett: This ready-to-wear method of inserting a lining gives the fastest and most professional-looking results

Adapt a Bra to Accommodate a Prosthesis: Creating a post-mastectomy bra from a purchased garment requires only basic sewing skills and a little attention to detail

The Bra Dilemma -- Solved!— by Cynthia Elam: Once you perfect the fit, you can sew your own custom bra again and again

The Great Elastic Waistband— by Linda Lee: Sewing professionals and designers share their secrets for comfortable, fashionable waistbands

Lapped Zippers Rule!— by Shirley Smith: They're easier to insert and look better than centered zippers in almost every situation

Understanding Underlining— by Sandra Betzina: Underlining solves everyday fabric problems, from stabilizing loose weaves to reducing show-through

A Shortcut to Great Linings— by Connie Long: Skip interfacing and keep facings in place with this quick-lining technique

A New Way to Pleat Drama into Your Garments— by Patricia Congleton: Create innovative texture using fabric, fusible interfacing, string, and a large cardboard tube

SewBasic: Grainline— by the editors of Threads Magazine: Understanding how grainlines behave can help you control the drape, fit, and overall appearance of your garment

Bungled Buttonholes— by Barbara Deckert: With creative solutions, most mistakes can be salvaged

Cutting Out— by Jan Bones: For starters, use a good-quality, sharp cutting tool, and a cutting surface that's at a comfortable height

Pattern Layouts— by Jan Bones: Tips on layout and ideas on keeping your pattern pieces in place

Bias 101— by Marcy Tilton: Master the tricks of sewing bias-cut garments with a simple style and foolproof fabric

Stop! Are You Sure That Pattern Will Work?— by Barbara Emodi: Not all patterns produce equally good results. Here's how to tell the wheat from the chaff

Selecting Interfacings, Underlinings, and Linings (PDF only)

Zippers Made Easy (PDF only)

Sleeve Plackets and Bands or (PDF Version) If the garment has sleeves with cuffs, it will require plackets unless the cuffs are made of a stretch knit fabric or are "pull-on" cuffs. The following plackets are simple and quick.

Collars or (PDF Version) Collars can add a fashionable finishing touch to a variety of garments, with collar style and shapes varying according to the season's fashion emphasis. Collars may have a square or pointed corners or rounded edges; they may be cut in two pieces, in one piece, or as a part of the body of the garment. Some collars lay flat, some fold close to the neckline, and others stand up. Whatever the style, a collar should frame the wearer's face, lying smoothly around the neckline, free of pulls, ripples, or wrinkles. The basic construction will be the same for all collars.

Patch Pockets or (PDF Version) Patch pockets may be used for decoration or function on blouses, shirts, and jackets. To prepare the pockets, cut the pocket as directed by the pattern. Patch pockets are generally cut on the lengthwise grain; however, a bias-cut pocket may be used on plaid or striped fabric to avoid having to match the fabric design.

Making Perfect Pants or (PDF Version) Women's fashions come and go, but pants are here to stay. Although the basic shape may change from season to season, pants have become a favorite fashion for women of all ages and for all kinds of activities.

Making Outerwear with Down or Polyester Fiberfill or ( PDF Version) Sewing outerwear is different from sewing more conventional garments. It's certainly much easier than sewing a tailored jacket: there is no interfacing and the zippers are exposed. Sewing outerwear can also be fun and creative-and you will have a garment that doesn't look like a hundred others.

Machine Buttonholes Made Easy or (PDF Version)The buttonhole markings on the pattern tissue indicate the placement-not the size-of the buttonhole. Buttons are sized according to their diameter. However, it's a button's circumference (the diameter plus the height) that determines how large the buttonhole needs to be. For example, a flat 5/8 inch button probably will require a smaller buttonhole than a domed button of the same size...

Fasteners Made Easy or (PDF Version) Fasteners are used on garments mainly to keep plackets closed, but they sometimes substitute for buttons. The most common fasteners are snaps, and hooks and eyes. Some are decorative and add to the appearance of the garment.

Facings Made Easy or (PDF Version) A facing is a piece of fabric used to finish raw edges of a garment at open areas, such as the neckline, armhole, and front and back plackets or opening. There are three basic types: shaped facings, extended facings, and bias facings.

Waistbands Made Easy or (PDF Version) Waistbands play an important part in the fit and appearance of skirts and pants. Waistbands smoothly encircle your waist, so they need to be made to your measurement.

NebGuide Articles [PDF links recovered 4/30/11]:

Sewing For Children An absolutely wonderful write up of information to help you in fitting, constructing and creating children's clothing.

Preparing Fabric For Use A great write up to understand more about fabric grain.

Seam Finishes Seam finishes, diagrams, directions, and the fabrics they are best to use on. See also: Seam Finishes Part 2

Sewing With Micro Fibers The Nebraska Cooperative Extension offers their Microfiber sewing information online, with stitching, needle, care and thread. See also: Micro Fibers

Follow That Grainline An excellent write up to understanding the fabric grain, lay out and cutting out garments, from the Nebraska Cooperative Extension.

Sewing With Knit Fabric. This publication discusses kinds of knits, testing for stretchability, and blocking, cutting and sewing with knits.

4-H Apparel and Textiles: Sewing Junior Level 57 page PDF Guide is simply an amazing resource which includes sections on sewing knit fabrics.

Tools for Topstitching For beautiful topstitching, you need to combine its three fundamental tools -- thread, presser feet, and needles -- and match them to your fabric's characteristics. The following overview of the tools for topstitching will help you through the maze of possible combinations.

Lining a Jacket or Coat. The purpose of a lining is to add to the comfort of the wearer; preserve the shape of a garment or add body to it; and conceal construction details and raw edges of fabric, thus giving a finished appearance to the inside of the garment. A neatly applied lining usually adds to a garment quality. [PDF link recovered 4/30/11]

Interfacings. Interfacing is a supportive fabric placed between the facing and garment fabric. Although hidden from view, it is a critical part of clothing construction. The necessity for interfacing is dependent on garment detail, fabric type and desired effects. It can make the difference between a professional-looking garment and a disappointment.

Sewing With Denim. Selecting, preparing, interfacing and lining denim, as well as denim sewing techniques, are covered in this guide.

Tailoring:

Recreating 16th and 17th Century Clothing- The Renaissance Tailor In crafting historically accurate clothing, it is as important for the pattern to be accurate as it is for the embellishment. In tailoring, the pattern dictates what the end product will look like far more than any embellishment or even fabric choice... [link recovered 4/30/11]

Tapering or Widening Pants— by Karen Howland: There's more to it than just adjusting the leg seams

T-Shirts [BIG 5.6mb PDF] A bunch of interesting ways to make a t-shirt more than just underwear.

Measurements for Fitting Pants (PDF only)

HGTV's ALTERATIONS: Excellent articles & pic.s		Arm Pattern Alterations	Sweatshirt Jacket	Tall Women Alterations
Pants Pattern Alterations	Shoulders & Backs	Vented Hems	Princess Seams	Elastic Back Waistband
Clothing that Fits	Pant Fit	Quick Fix Alterations	Bustline Solutions	Eliminating The Waistband
Altering a Pattern	The Not So Perfect Figure	Adding, Removing Seams	Trouser Alterations	Sewing for Petites

Patterns & Projects:

Selecting a Pattern Size for Perfect Fit or (PDF Version)

Pattern Alteration Pattern adjustment or alteration is often necessary to achieve good fit in a garment. Making adjustments or alterations before the garment is cut from fabric will eliminate many problems. Use this collection of alteration guidelines to solve women's most common fitting problems.

Early Medieval Clothes Patterns Tunics, hose & hoods [PDF link recovered 4/30/11]

Belts Here's a great spot for learning the basics of making your own belt.

Mitered Welt Pockets Workshop Detailed directions, diagrams and illustrations for making welt pockets.

Perfect Round Patch Pockets Excellent diagrams, tips and directions for a professional look on a finished pocket.

Free Pattern: Threads Shawl Collar Blouse— by Carol Spier: Print out this schematic for the blouse shown on the cover of the June/July 2003 issue of Threads, and add your own twin-needle embellishment

Forums:

Martha Pullen Sewing Forum: Has thousands (that's right, thousands) of messages on a variety of topics. [link recovered 4/30/11]

FAQs:

Bra FAQ #2: Bra making Tutorial A collection of feedback and pointers for bra making from other sewers, collected from sewing newsgroups. Loads of reading and information.

FABU-LEATHER SEWING TIPS Tips, tricks and pointers to working with machine washable leather.

Sewing Tip Exchange where you can come and take a sewing tip or leave a sewing tip. They update daily with a new Tip of the Day and have archives of all past tips.

Online Magazines:

Threads Online and Threads eLetter Each monthly issue brings you creative tips to help you enjoy your sewing even more.

Software, Charts, Calculators:

Other:

Recycling Clothes Frugal ways to turn your old clothes in to new items and save money.

Specialty Outdoors "Tips and Techniques for sewing your own outdoor gear", is an understatement for the wealth of information this page provides

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