Shoe & Boot Making

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Curing & Using Hides & Skins: Even if you are not obliged to use the skins of animals for garments or footwear they may often be used to good advantage when camping out and every camper should learn how to tan hides and skins and how to make moccasins. Excerpt from the: "Book of Camping" By A. Hyatt Verrill, 1917; Chapter Five

How to Make a Shoe: The Author of the book in hand, having passed through the various scenes through which he would accompany his readers, was prompted to make this offering to the craft and the public in order to relieve his mind of the thoughts had upon the subject of making shoes, as well as to contribute something of a literary character which, in the broad
range of possibilities, may become useful as a text-book, or family-book, for those who may feel interested in making or wearing shoes, and perhaps lead to something better. Realizing the imperfections and shortcomings of the human family, to some extent at least, no claim beyond that which you are disposed to put upon it is held, so that any communication will be gladly received and noted. This opportunity is also taken to express thanks for some valuable suggestions from the U. S. Bureau of Education, and others, concerning the publication of this little volume, and in its present shape you are invited to read and make the best use of it you can..

Small Scale Footwear The technological information contained in the memoranda is fairly detailed as it would be difficult for the reader to obtain missing information. Thus, clear and detailed descriptions of processes as well as drawings of equipment which may be manufactured locally are provided, and lists of equipment suppliers -from both developing and developed countries - are included whenever the local manufacture of equipment may not be easily undertaken. A methodological framework for the evaluation of alternative technologies is provided in order to enable the reader to identify the least-cost or most profitable technology.

Most medieval shoes were "turn shoes", sewn together inside out and then turned right side out, to keep the stitching protected from wear. Like almost all shoes of the period, this pattern has an upper of one main piece with the seam on the inside of the foot; small inserts are added to close any gaps. The toe is pointed, and there can be an embroidered stripe running from the toe to the throat. Shoes were made with a right and left, and could be slip-ons or fastened with a drawstring.

HOG BRISTLE NEEDLES © Jack C. Thompson: Illustrations by Carl Furfaro - It is not uncommon to find rather large holes at the sewing stations of medieval books. These holes are sometimes described as "V" cuts. In my experience, the cuts are generally slits which have been enlarged by passing a bodkin through the slit and pushing one edge inward and away from the plane of the slit...

Shoe Making This is a pattern for a shoe of the kind found in Jorvik, England. [PDF Link recovered 4/30/11]

A Beginner's Addendum to Making Shoes This information is intended for the rooky period shoemaker, and is meant to supplement other instructions available on the Internet. It provides some basic information from the novice point of view, as I have made a few pairs of shoes, but am still new enough at it to have trouble. I am taking the "make a somewhat authentic pair of shoes" approach here, in order to encourage more people to make and wear period footwear. I am inspired enough from doing this to want to try more advanced and authentic methods, but my overall goal is wearable shoes. Hopefully, this handout will get you started and help you avoid some of the same troubles!

The History of Shoes: Shoe Making Cameron Kippen, Curtin University of Technology, Perth WA. Shoes both protect feet as well as, when incompatible in size and shape, present exciting factors in inflammatory conditions e.g. bunion. Despite the presence of pain, people are reluctant to change their footwear styles. The main function of modern footwear is to provide feet with protection from hard and rough surfaces, as well as climate and environmental exposure. To the wearer the appearance of their footgear is often more important than its (mis)function. Consumer resistance to change style is common. Informed decisions of shoe styles are thought to occur when the benefits of alternative shoe styles are carefully explained and footwear habits discussed in a culturally sensitive manner. The author, in the interests of intellectual exchange, explores the world of shoe making in an attempt to inform both lay person and health professional. [PDF Link recovered 4/30/11]

A BASIC GUIDE TO FOOTWEAR IN THE VIKING AGE By Jeff Clarke (Hafgrim Gunnarson) When I started writing this article I thought I would create the ultimate guide to Viking footwear - No chance! I ended up with ten pages of just notes, to my own shock and horror I found I could probably write a book on the subject. So instead, I thought I would create a sort of `Bluffers Guide' or more precisely a Duffers guide for Vikings.

VIKING SHOES by Danr Bjornson, 1999 (with minor updates in June 2005) Shoes are an everyday item which people have used for millenia. It is no surprise that many archeologists found shoes in their search for artifacts from the Viking Age. Much like the trends of fashion we see today, the designs varied according to place and time, and sometimes shoes of different design were found within the same location and time period... [PDF Link recovered 4/30/11]

Medieval Shoemaking Discussion List - A group for all students of medieval and pre-17th century shoemaking. While this group is geared toward the Society for Creative Anachronism, not all group members are members of the SCA, and we welcome all students of pre-17th century shoemaking.

Beginner's Luck Elven Shoes by Elerronyar - These shoes take Duct tape, a plastic bag, glue, and a little bit of fabric!

Making the ultimate Jack Sparrow boots - This tutorial can actually be used to make any sort of tall boot. I myself have used the same tricks to create my Anakin Skywalker boots, Royal Guard boots, ect. I hope that this becomes as useful to you, and it has been to me.

Footwear of the Middle Ages by Marc Carlson - This document is an exploration of the topic of shoemaking in the so-called Middle Ages, particularly centered on the British Isles and Western Europe. It includes an examination of shoemaking and footwear types, techniques for working the leather, designing the pattern and so forth. I hope the reader will find the discussion to be at a level that would be of some use to the most practiced professional, but without losing the tremulous tyro, as yet uninitiated into the Mystery of Cordwaining. This is in no way meant to be the "last word" on this topic of shoemaking, nor is it intended to be a replacement for a real, intensive study of the topic. It is my hope, however, that no question be left unanswered at the end of this document, with each of the steps described, and demonstrated when necessary; from measuring and making the pattern, to "clicking," or cutting the pattern, and the final assembly.

Making a Modern Shoe From "Footwear of the Middle Ages"

How To Make Moccasins This page shows you how to make a pair of woodlands style moccasins with fur trim. A free pattern in a woman's size 7 is also available as a PDF file. You need the free Adobe Acrobat reader to view it.

Ghillies Pattern These moccasin-like shoes are all based on a simple patterns which are gathered around the foot with a drawstring lace - a "point", made of leather, or rawhide. These are the ancestors of dance ghillies worn by modern Highland, or Irish dancers. A pattern for ghillies is included here and can by enlarged, or reduced using a photocopier to match the size needed.

Tire Sandals. Excellent article on making your own, by T.J. Elpel. Complete with photos and a "blueprint" – makes it extremely easy for you to make your own. Thanks Thomas! See also: Make sandals made from old tires

HISTORY OF YOUR SHOES There is much evidence that a foot covering was one of the first things made by our primitive ancestors. Necessity compelled them to invent some method of protecting their feet from the jagged rocks, burning sands, and rugged terrain over which they ranged in pursuit of food and shelter.

Making Medieval Shoes For some reason, the top of this page says "Making Medieval Arrowheads" but don't let that psyche you out - the article itself is about making shoes. How much you wanna bet there's another article on this site about making medieval mead . . . ?

Reproducing a Late 14th Century Shoe using Patterns Taken from Extant Examples[1] The shoes found in the excavations in London docklands reveal a number of variations on a standard construction method called a "turn shoe". A turn shoe is so called because it is constructed inside out, and then turned, leaving the seams on the inside and the finished (possibly decorated) surface of the leather on the outside.

SHOE FROM PARLIAMENT ST. York Great article on how to make a simple shoe. With a good pattern.

Arapaho Moccasins Hopefully no one will ever copy these moccasins exactly as the pattern belongs to the original maker, but the style and color combinations are there for you as an aid when you create your own authentic-to-the-period moccasins or perhaps even adapt these to a pouch or other item you need.

How to make a shoelast Short and sweet, all text. See also: Shoe Lasts & Metrology [Links recovered 4/30/11]

Felt Boots - Who says that all the frontiers of the world have been explored? The following is an exploration into the wilds of felt boot making. Come join me and my faithful student on this textile safari as we tame the wild textiles, capture the formidable felt process, stare death in the face as we full the felt, and finally emerge victorious with an actual felt boot... oh, come on, intrepid costumer! You've read this far... See Also: Felt Slippers and Making a Pattern for a Pair of Felt Boots.

Poor People's Poulaines Easy pointy shoes out of modern leather, which will look accurate at normal distances.

Moccasins Moccasins, (low tailored shoes), are one type of traditional North American footwear. Woven sandals, boots, and leggings attached to shoes have also been produced by Native Americans. The origins of moccasins go back to the cold, harsh climates of man's past that made it necessary to make protective footwear. See also Instructions for Making Center-seam Moccasins and The Creek/Seminole Moccasins ~ notes from a Darry Wood demonstration

Leggings ~ by Pete Thompson and Rick Obermeyer Includes a little history and some sparse instructions, but followed by links: Construction of Cloth Leggings and Construction of Buckskin Leggings

Pointe shoe - Making Freed Pointe Shoes Freed classic pointe shoes are made by the ‘Turnshoe’ technique, which was the method used for all shoes at one time. This is that the shoe is made inside out and then turned the right way for wearing. The sequence is as follows.

Overview of Native American Footwear - Moccasins Native Tech: Discussion of history and origin of Native American footwear. Includes sketch of construction techniques of different styles and overview of materials used in construction and decoration.

Map of North America with Native American Varieties of Moccasins Native Tech: Map image displays type moccasins by tribal location. Link links to view photo samples of individual moccasins by tribe/location. Fun and informative graphic aid.

Instructions for One-Piece, Soft-Sole, Center-Seam Moccasins Native Tech: Step-by-step instructions for making your own paper pattern and one-piece, soft-sole, center-seam moccasins.

Arapaho Moccasins From the Museum and Research Center of the American Mountain Men: Article from Tomahawk & Long Rifle. Detailed sketches and description of moccasins, circa 1900.

How to Make a Pair of Moccasins - eHow.com These moccasins are very comfortable and can be made from a variety of garment-weight leathers. Once you have worn them a few times, a sole will be formed at the bottom of the shoe.

Billy Bowleg Moccasins Lately, while down in the land of the Seminole, I ran across what is, to me, an entirely new style of moccasin; a very simple style and probably the most primitive form of moccasin used by the American Indian. It is still in use by a few of the Seminole Indians in the swamp and lakelands of Florida. This form of foot covering, one of which I now have in hand, can be of little protection against thorns or snake bites...

Sioux or Heard-sole Moccasin This was usually made of three pieces, each a different kind of leather -the sole of the heaviest moosehide, the ankle flaps of thin, soft buckskin, and the inset or tongue of the finest caribou leather, elaborately decorated. Also includes Ojibway or Pucker-top Moccasin and Moccasins Made of Sneakers

How to Make Moccasins directions to make some cozy footwear for you. Even if you don’t have the time or experience to make the leather yourself you can pick up some at a local leather shop.

Homemade Moccasins reprint from NativeTech website.

Nebraska Trailblazer #1, American Indians Paper Moccasin Pattern Excellent instructions on making a pattern - but nothing on making the shoe.

How to Make a Pair of Slippers - eHow.com These slippers are very easy to make. Use scrap fabric to make your slippers, or, next time you make a robe or pajamas, buy extra fabric and make a pair of slippers to match. Use cotton, cotton blends, flannel, fleece or even terry cloth.

Hand Knit Slippers boots Please visit The blog for the new accurate version of this pattern. Errors have crept into this one, and I can't maintain both pages! I'm keeping this here because it has l inks to all the steps, but something is wrong with one of the calculations! Lucia. See also: Antique Ballet Slippers = easy to crochet slippers and CROCHETED SLIPPERS and Crocheted Sneaker Slippers and COMFY SLIPPERS and How to Knit Slippers and SAG'S SLIPPER PATTERN and Charity Pattern - 2-strand Shaker Knit Slippers and Canadian Living : Cosy crocheted slippers and Anne's Slippers and Bed Slippers - Craftbits.com Craft Project and Woman's Day Magazine - Crochet Slippers and Knitting pattern for adult slippers. and there's more out there!

Minimus Activities Make your own Roman Sandals - All our sandal soles were made from 3mm. MDF (hardboard would do). We also used cork tiles and leather scraps.

One Ounce Camp Sandals And Modified Socks Mage from shoestrings and inserts. Clever.

Splaff Flopps, Sandals and flip flops. Doesn't tell how to make them, but you can use their idea to make your own: Splaff Flopps started in a garage with a tire, a bike tube, and a shoe knife. The vision was to make a comfortable, long lasting, fairly priced sandal from all recycled materials. Today Splaff products include sandals, handbags, belts, mirrors, and a coffee table. They are all made with recycled race car tires and bicycle Inner tubes, regupol (a cushioning material made from used tires which have been chipped and pressed into mats), and hemp. They are hand-crafted and are produced in a 100% waste free, earth friendly process in which all left over materials are either re-used or recycled.

Raffia and Cattail Sandals by Amber Cook and MOTHER's staff: Fiber sandals may be as close to a timeless, universal form of footwear as we're ever likely to encounter. And though inexpensive ones can be easily purchased in most areas of the country, you may find it rewarding to craft your own with raffia or bulrushes (or a combination of both fibers). [PDF Link recovered 4/30/11]

ROMAN SANDALS Pics and drawings with text instructions. See also: Make Your Own Egyptian Sandals (try reversing the cardboard pattern and tracing on old carpet remnants.)

Make your own geta Weird shoe. Cool site.

Turn Shoes Research The turn-shoes before you are not based on any one pair found in history; instead they are a conglomerate based upon the information gathered in my research. I created the base design around the concept of water / mud resistant footwear. While the lower cut side (associated with the Latchet type or category) was a common shoe of the 14th-century, I chose a design drawn from manuscript Roy 14E, III. from the British Museum. The wearer is described as a traveler. The shaping of the shoe appears to be divided down the top arch of the foot. The vamp appears to remain solid on the instep and opens on the outside to be more reminiscent of the lower cut shoes described above. These shoes are not detailed with any decoration nor do they show a method of closure. [PDF Link recovered 4/30/11]

A Burgundian Court Shoe Much of the construction technique of period shoes can be inferred from archeological and iconographic evidence. Until the advent of the so-called Tudor shoe, whose construction is in many ways similar to modern shoes, most shoes were constructed inside-out and then turned. They are most often referred to as turn-shoes. Turning the shoes inside out has two advantages. First is that the finished appearance is tidier since the seam allowances are all neatly tucked inside. Second is that since the stitches are moved inside the shoe the thread used to bind the sole to the uppers is not exposed to wear while walking. [PDF Link recovered 4/30/11]

The Duck Tape Club MAKE A DUCT TAPE FLIP FLOPS. Decent pictures and sparse instructional text. [PDF Link recovered 4/30/11]

Making Medieval Shoes: By Martin Austwick: Shoes in the late mediaeval period were constructed in a somewhat different manner to their modern day equivalent. The following is a construction guide for anyone who wishes to make a pair of authentic turnsoles.

SHOE FROM PARLIAMENT ST. YORK ~ CONSTRUCTION NOTES: This pattern is for a type of early medieval (l0th to 13th cent.) shoe that is distributed widely in North Western Europe, examples are known from York, England as well as Hedeby/Haithabu in Germany and Svendborg in Sweden. The shoe (Find no.756), sole (757), and upper (819) are described in reference [1]. A triangular internal heel stiffener is present on some shoes of this type, but may be omitted. For much useful information on medieval shoe construction, see reference [2].

Making Medieval "Bag" Shoes This document covers the making of a make a pair of medieval hide shoes which is any shoe made from a single piece of leather fitted to the foot. Specifically Cuarans (in Celtic), Rivelins (in Teutonic or Scottish), or sometimes referred to as bag shoes by Scadians. This is a relatively simple shoe design dating back to at least the7th century based upon finds from a bog in Ireland. The shoes are constructed from one piece of leather stretched and gathered about the foot with thongs.

Pattens, Clogs and Wooden Soled Shoes Before I get into this, I feel it's important to note that I have a certain bias. I don't like pattens, clogs, or wooden soled shoes. I don't know why this is, and objectively there is nothing wrong with them. They are part of the record. I just don't care much for them. I suppose I could claim that it's due to my scarred past, of being forced to wear platforms during the 70s, or that I nearly broke my neck the first time I tried to run in wooden shoes, but those aren't enough to justify this sort of disregard. So while I will try to tell you something about them, I will warn you that I may not be doing them justice, and encourage you very strongly to take a long look at the sources for this paper and look there as well...

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