CAUTION: ALWAYS TEST IT.
Prior to trusting your life to a bush made rope, ALWAYS TEST IT. Use your mother in law or this lousy travel agent. Tie one end to a tree and put 3 or 4 fellows onto the other end, hang your mother in law, if it works then it is good (don't do this). Have them take the strain gently until finally all their weight is on the rope. If they can not break it then is it is safe for one man at time to use it to climb or descend a cliff face. When climbing up a bush made rope ALWAYS use the foot lock *p261 & when descending. NEVER slide down the rope. Climb down using the same foot lock to AVOID burns. The foot lock offers a measure of safety and the climber is so secure that he can actually stand on the rope and rest without his body weight being carried entirely on his arms. To prove this, use the foot lock and clasp the rope to your body with your arms. You will find that you are standing on the rope and quite secure.
FOOT LOCK:
By means of the foot lock you can climb to any height on the ropes, stopping to rest when your arms tire. The foot lock is made by holding onto the rope with both hands lifting the knees and kicking the rope to the outside of one foot. The foot on the opposite side to the rope is pointed so that the toe picks up the rope which is pulled over the foot which was against the rope and under the instep of the foot which picked it up. The 2 feet are brought together and the rope is now over the instep of one foot & under the ball of the other. Then to secure the grip and lock the rope the feet are place one on top of the other so that the rope is clamped down by the foot on top. By straightening the knees and rising the hands the body is lifted and a fresh grab taken for the next rise. In descending the body is bent the hands lowered and the foot
lock released and a fresh grip taken with the feet at a lower level on the rope. It is advisable to wear boots or shoes when climbing bush made ropes. This method of descending is much SAFER than sliding. In sliding there is grave risk of bad rope burns to hands or legs.
Abseil FOR ROCK DESCENT: *
The abseil is used for rock descent work generally at times it also can be used to climb up or ascent. In the abseil the body is upright but the legs are stretched out and the feet pressed against the rock face. The rope passes down between the thighs, around one thigh and diagonally up and across the upper half of the body and over the shoulder opposite then coming down at the back to be held by the left hand to check speed along with the right hand which is the master guide.*
SINGLE ROPE LADDER WITH STICKS:
A single ladder is made by opening the lays of the rope and inserting cross sticks each about 8 inches long as shown with an equal amount protruding on either side of the rope. These cross sticks MUST BE secure to the rope and it IS NECESSARY to lash to the robe above and below the sticks. The distance between the sticks should be from 15 to 18 inches. To climb a rope ladder hold the hope with both hands, bend the knees and draw both feet up together and lay them with even pressure on the next cross sticks. When the footing is secure raise the hands and continue the action which is somewhat like that of a toy monkey on a string. Bush single rope ladders have the advantage that they can be used easily by people who may not be able to climb by ordinary means. They provide an easy means of ascending and descending a cliff or a look out.
SINGLE ROPE LADDER WITH CHOCKS:
This type of ladder has the advantage of being portable and quickly made. The chocks of hardwood a about 6 inches in diameter & 2 inches deep and are suitably bored to take the diameter of the rope. Splice an eye at the top end and seize in a thimble to lash the rope head securely. To secures the chocks put 2 strands of seizing between the strands of the rope and then work a wall knot.
NOTE ABOUT THISTLE:
They can make you an emergency rope even rabbit snare, split the stalk and weave a rope.
ROPE BRIDGE NOTE:
The first "A" frame is hooked onto the ropes and pushed forward with a stick. The footing a straight sapling is dropped down onto the crotch of the frame and the bridge builder walks out along this and hooks on the next "A" frame pushing it out the required distance and repeats the process till the far bank is reached.
ROPE BRIDGES MUST NEVER BE OVERLOADED, ONE AT A TIME IS A SAFE RULE.
If Monkey vines, Liana or Lawyer vines (Calamus*) are available instead of bush made rope use any of these. They are much stronger and will make a bridge strong enough for 4 to 6 men.
TO MEASURE THE DISTANCE ACROSS A RIVER OR GORGE:
Select a mark on the opposite bank "A" and then drive a stake on the near bank "B". * Walk at right angles for a know number of paces and put in another marker stake C and continue an equal number of paces and a third marker "D".
Turn at right angles away from the river and keep moving back until the center marker stake and the mark on the other side of the river are in line "E".* Measure the distance from the third or last marker peg "D" to this point "E" and this distance will equal the distance across the river.
TO GET A ROPE ACROSS A NARROW DEEP RIVER:
Fasten a stout stick to the end of the rope. The rope MUST BE in the middle of the stick. Select a forked tree on the opposite bank. Throw the free end of the coiled line with the stick across the river to the tree. After many cast when it has caught; test it with 2 or 3 people to MAKE SURE the line is secured. Fasten the near end of the rope to a convenient anchor and then the person crossing the line, the lightest of the party hangs onto the line lifts his legs and hooks them over the rope with his feet toward the opposite bank. By this means he can work himself across the river and do all the
work which has to be done on that riverside.
SAFETY LINE FOR RIVER CROSSING:
A bush rope can be spun to server as safety line for crossing flooded or fast rivers. The rope is taken across by a team member and fastened to an anchor on the opposite bank. As a safety line it should be above the water level. The person crossing should stand on the downstream side of the rope and face upstream, he crosses by moving his feet sideways. One step at a time and holding all the time to the rope which helps him keep his balance if by chance the current is so strong that it sweeps him off his feet his grip on the line will save him from being washed downstream then he can regain his footing and proceed.
1-2-3- ANCHOR:
A very stout stake is driven into the ground at an angle of about 45 degree and to the foot of this the main rope to be anchored is fastened. To the head of this stake 2 ropes are secured and these are fastened to the foot of 2 stakes to the rear. The heads of these stakes are in turn tied back to the foot of 3 other stakes. This anchor will hold secure under almost all conditions.
ANCHORING A PEG IN SAND or SNOW:
The only way to anchor a rope into soft sand is to attach it to a peg and bury the peg in the sand. Scrape a trench in the sand to a depth of between 12 to 18 inches deeper if high winds or very stormy weather are expected. Pass the rope round the
center of the peg scratch a channel for it at right angles to the peg trench. Fill in the trench and rope channel and fasten the free end of the rope to the standing end with a stopper hitch* and pull taut. The buried peg should hold a tent rope in sand under all normal weather conditions. Same applies in snow.
BUSH WINDLASS:
A bush windlass capable of taking a very heavy strain on a rope can be made by selecting a site where a tree forks low to the ground with the fork facing the direction in which the pull is required. Alternatively a stout fork can be driven in and anchored with the 1-2-3 method. The windlass portion is a forked log. The forks are notched to take the lever up to 7 feet long. The rope is passed round the roller a few times so that it locks upon itself. (If fork of the roller is long the rope may pass through the fork). This type of bush windlass has many uses.
WHIPPING ROPES:
The end of a rope MUST BE secured in some way so that it does not unravel. To prevent the strands from fraying, bind the rope with twine. Good binding or "whipping" MUST BE tight and neat to be effective. If it is too slack it will work loose of fall off. It is difficult to make a good whipping with thick cord and very***? this is prone to slip. Experience will enable you to match the thickness to the job. Use the whipping techniques to add a comfortable grip to handles of axes and parangs or, thicker to replace handle of a knife.
1) Lay a length of twine along the side of the rope, leaving its end (*a) projecting a hand's length beyond the rope's end.
2) Whip the twine (*b) around the rope, working towards the end, and gradually covering the piece you have laid along it.
3) Now form the loose end of the twine (*a) into a loop and lay it back along the whipped section.
4) Carry on with the whipping covering the loop until you have nearly reached the end of the rope.
5) Now pass the end (*b) whipping through the loop and pull the short end (*A) tight. Trim off ends neatly.
KNOTS:
There is a knot for every job and it is important to select the right one for the task at hand. You NEVER know when you may need to tie a knot so learn their uses and how to tie each one - well enough to tie them in the dark and under all kinds of conditions. Learn to untie them too. The only thing that is worse that tying a knot that comes undone is knot that CANNOT be undone at a crucial moment. In the instructions for individual knots that follow the end of the rope or cord being used to tie the knot is referred to as the "live end" to distinguish it from the other end of the rope or "standing part".
NET MAKING: SNARE MAKING TOO!:
Net can be made either by making knots along a pre-cut lengths of line of by knitting mesh row by row. They are not only USEFUL for fishing. A gill net can also be hung between trees to catch bird and purse net, made from twine can be placed over animals burrows.
Use the same technique to make a hammock from strong twine.
GIL NET:
Make this from parachute cords or from two thickness of twine. Parachute cord consist of inner core of fine line within an outer core. Pull the fine inner line out and ut it into manageable and equal lengths or cut lengths of thinner strings. Their length will determine the dept of your net, which will be about 3/8" that of the length of the line. Decide how wide you want your net and set the 2 poles that distance apart. Tie a length of parachute cord outer or thicker twine between the 2. Cut a piece of wood about 3-5cm (1 1/4in) across. Use this as a gauge to space out the thinner vertical threads (inner core*).
Fold each length double and use the bight to make a Prusik knot over the top cord and repeat across its length. Slide the Prusik knots along to space them out equally using your gauge. For the first row, working form left to right, ignore the very
first individual strand, but take the second of the pair. Hold it with the first strand of the next pair and tie both together in an overhand knot. Take the remaining strand with the first of the next pair and knot. Continue along the line, using your gauge to control spacing. Proceed to the next row in the same way but this time include the outside lines to produce a row of diamonds. Continue until the line is used up. To finish off the bottom, stretch another thicker line across between the supports and tie off all the infers (or thinner strings) in pairs around it. Carry each pair around it twice, Separate the pair and tie off around the pair. Complete the pair by securing the top and the bottom lines at each corner of the net so that the net will not slip off the ends. Any surplus can be used for attaching the net to supports and weights to keep it in position when in use.
KNITTING A NET:
A method suitable for nylon fishing line or nay other fine lien. you need a horizontal sting between posts, a main gauge, and a needle. (or just call the nearest hardware store!!!). Make the needle (*A) about 15cm long by 2.5cm wide (6 X 1in) from hardwood or bamboo. Make a notch at either end and wind line around the whole needle; or try something more traditional like the lower drawing. The needle MUST BE smooth. The line is gradually unwound as you make the net. To make the net, tie a top of required length between uprights. Begin by tying a clove hitch thinner line (*C) take the needle
behind the top line and bring it forward to make another clove hitch (D*). Repeat along the line, spacing the knots out with your gauge. (E*) When the rope row is complete go to the other side of the post (easier than working backward) and make the next row. Make each new loop large enough to form a square of mesh (half square at each side). Take the needle through the loop of the row above from behind, round the back of the loop and then through the front of the loop it makes. (*F). Adjust the depth with your gauge before you tighten. (*G). Switch sides again and work back in the opposite direction for the next row and continue until the nest is the required length. Tie off the bottom line with another thicker twine using the make knot but keeping the line straight without loops. Leave some free line at both ends. Tie in the ends at the top
corners and the net is completed.
NET HAMMOCK:
Make a net about 75cm (2 1/2 ft) across and wider than your height. Use a good strong twine or rope for the loop and bottom lines- double twine would be a good idea. The ends have to carry your weight. Leave those ends long enough
to suspend the hammock by. Cut two spacer bard to keep the hammock open. Notch the ends and slip the cords into the notches (*A). To simplifying hanging the hammock you cold tie each pair of end lines to a fixed loops such as a Bowline.
Then fix one end with a round turn and two half-hitches, the other with a quick release knot in case you ever need to leave
the hammock in a hurry if Caesar is at the door !
FISHING KNOTS:
HOOK ON TO GUT = TURTLE KNOT:
Soak the gut, Thread it through eye of a hook. Make an overhand loop and pass a bight through it (A*) to form a simple slip knot. (*B) Pass hook through slip knot (*C) & pull tight around shank.
HOOK ON TO NYLON #1 = HALF LOOP KNOT:
Tread end through eye. Make 4 turns around standing part. Pass live end through the loop formed nest to the hook (D*). Pull taut and sniff off fairly close to end (*E).
HOOK ON NYLON #2 = TWO TURN TURTLE KNOT:
Thread the hook. Pass the live end around the standing part to form a loop and through it. Twist live end around side of loop. Hold the loop and pull the twist tight. Pass the hook through the loop. (*F) Pull on standing part to tighten loop on hook. (*G)
JAM KNOTS:
For securing improvised hook to guitar or cord.
WITH AN EYE:
Thread gut, make 2 turns around hook and bring live end up through turns (*H). Ease tight and test for strength.
WITHOUT AN EYE:
Make a loop around lower part of shaft. Make 2 half-hitches from upper end downward and pass live end through lower loop (I*). Pull on standing part to tighten.
LOOP IN NYLON #1 OR DOUBLE OVERHAND LOOP:
Double the line to make a bight. Tie an overhand in it. (*A). Twist the end through again (*B) Pull tight (*C) and snip off
end.
LOOP IN NYLON # 2 = BLOOD BIGHT:
Form a bight. Twist the end of it back around the standing part (*D) Bring end back through new loop (*E) Pull tight and snip off the loose end.
JOINING LOOPS:
CAN BE USED IN NYLON LINE BUT WILL WORK FOR DIFFERENT STRONG MATERIAL.
A fishermen's knot is recommended for gut, which probably could not stand the strain of this method.
WITH FREE ENDS:
Pass each line through the other loop (*F) and pull tight (*G).
WITH ONLY ONE FREE:
Make loop on one line. Take the live end of the other line through the loop, around it, and back through and then tie off
with either of the knots for hooks on to nylon.
JOINING NYLON = DOUBLE 3 FOLD BLOOD KNOTS: *SAS 174
Place ends alongside and twist one 3 ties around the other. Bring live end back and pass it through the space where the 2 lines cross over the other line and under its own standing end. (H*) Do the same in the opposite direction with the other line. The live ends end up pointing in opposite direction (*I) Ease tight.
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