An obligatory regulation, although not a test laid down by the UIAA, is
the designation of ropes for use as either single or double. Further to
the tests laid down by the UIAA many manufacturers continue with their
own testing to try and improve on previous standards. Such tests as
sheath abrasion and water absorption prove to be most useful to the
consumer, although unfortunately only a few manufacturers give these
specifications. It seems reasonable to assume that the more
specifications a manufacturer gives the greater confidence they have in
their own ropes.
At present, the UIAA only states that ropes should be designated
single or double, grouping sub-9mm ropes with 9 mm (double- ropes). Some
manufacturers do refer to them as twin ropes in an attempt to inform the
purchaser of the difference. It would be useful for the UIAA to adopt
this third designation (twin rope).
All the tests laid down by the UIAA are carried out under controlled
conditions, and the UIAA label indicates that a rope is safe when bought
new. Ropes without a UIAA approval should not be considered.
Single, Double or Twin Rope Technique
There are three main rope techniques used in climbing today: single,
double and twin rope. All have different uses, some overlapping, some
not.
| Single Rope Technique
Single ropes are used
with great efficiency, particularly in Europe and the USA where the
majority of routes tend to go straight up with little variation of
line. Beginners and middle grade climbers in Britain traditionally buy an 11 mm rope, usually for reasons of economy, and in the belief that these ropes last longer. It is often assumed that the novice will not go on climbs with complicated route finding, thus causing rope drag, but this is a fallacy, for many fine classic routes have deviating lines. |
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| Double Rope Technique
Double rope
technique is the most commonly used system in Britain, where the
vast number of routes have complicated lines which would result in
rope drag if a single rope were used. Protection is clipped
alternately or consecutively depending on the line of the route to
optimize free running of the rope. Double ropes have considerable advantages over single ropes for abseiling and provide back-up should one rope be 'chopped' (emergencies only). Disadvantages include extra weight, cost and more complicated handling at the belay. |
 |
| Twin Rope Technique
Twin ropes
have caused a great deal of concern recently because they are
sometimes used as a double rope system which can be dangerous. Twin rope technique using sub-9mm ropes involves both ropes being used as one, i.e. both ropes go through every point of protection. It is better for the rope and karabiner that each piece of protection has a separate karabiner for each rope. Only after rope has been run out and points of protection placed (thus reducing the fall-factor, i.e. distance fallen divided by the total length of rope between climber and belayer), would it be safe to alternatively clip the ropes. If twin ropes are used correctly, they have considerable advantages with regard to easier handling and higher capacity to absorb a fall. This has been shown in an independent test by the University of Stuttgart (commissioned by the DAV) where several ropes were drop tested over edges of different radii, from 1 mm - 5 mm (5 mm being the radius of a carabiner). The results show that all ropes tested far exceed the UIAA standards. |
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Rope to Suit Your Needs
Once a decision is reached as to which technique is best for your own
style of climbing, you must choose between the various diameters from 12
mm through to 10 mm (single ropes), 9.4 mm through to 9 mm (double
ropes) and 8.8 mm through to 8.5 mm (twin ropes). 10.5 mm is a fairly
new diameter which has proved popular, because it is robust enough to be
used as a single rope, yet light enough to be incorporated in a double
rope system should the need arise.
Twin ropes are a more difficult choice, as the diameter varies from
manufacturer to manufacturer. As a general principle the larger the
diameter the stronger the rope, which does leave the consumer in a bit
of a quandary, as the usual reason for purchasing twin ropes is for
their lightness.
Length is an important consideration, and although many manuals still
advocate 45 m, 50 m rope is preferable. With a view to progressing
beyond small crags and outcrops to mountainous areas and/or long routes,
the extra 5 m, although adding another 350g (approx) to the rope, proves
invaluable. For example a leader falling near the end of a pitch has
more usable rope, better belays can be reached on long pitches and
there's more room to maneuver on abseils. For these reasons the climber
should consider 50 meters.
An expensive decision is whether or not to buy an 'everdry' rope.
Waterproof ropes are invaluable for snow and ice climbing as standard
ropes easily become saturated and heavy, more difficult to handle
through belay brakes and abseil devices, and cause more friction through
runners. If the ropes freeze in this condition, they lose a considerable
amount of strength. Cost is a big drawback, however, and can increase
the price tag by up to 30%.
Although cost is the most important consideration for many climbers,
ropes are good value for money, being extremely well made. You only have
to look at other high-tech sports to see how little climbers need spend
by comparison.
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