Weapons Caching Series
There
are 7 parts to this file:
1. This initial post;
2. The Introduction;
3. Equipment List, Instructions for Assembly of Kit, and Assembly of Cache;
4. Instructions for Placement and Burial of Cache;
5. Other Things to Do, and First Aid Kit w/ a Recommended Reading List;
The purpose of posting these articles to the Internet is:
(1) To get owners of weapons to realize that their situation is critical
- they must immediately become active in the legislative process in order to
secure the free exercise of their right to keep and bear arms;
(2) To give notice to those who would deprive law-abiding citizens of one
of their most important natural rights, the right to keep and bear arms, that
their attempts at pretended legislation will meet with defiance and scorn at
best;
(3) To lay the groundwork for a massive campaign of civil disobedience to
unConstitutional laws, should it become necessary to do so, so that those in
power can realize that their power actually does derive from the "consent
of the governed". When the governed withdraw their consent, the lawful and
just powers of the government are withdrawn also.
(4) To give those who would wish to freely exercise their Second
Amendment rights in the face of government tyranny, after failing to preserve
their freedoms, the means to do so. It is hoped that this shall never come to
pass, but this will only be the case if those who wish to preserve their liberty
do nothing in the face of the present evil.
(c) 1993 American Renaissance Productions.
Permission is hereby given to reproduce this text at no charge, so long as
this copyright notice is preserved, the text is reproduced without alteration,
and so long as no money is charged for reproductions on paper, aside from a
reasonable amount for materials. This permission is applicable to electronic and
print media. Unless otherwise noted, commercial use of this information is not
permitted by the copyright owner.
"This whole country began with resistance to gun control."
1. Introduction:
The American Revolution began on the morning of April 19, 1775, when British
troops marched on the road to Lexington and Concord, Massachusetts, to seize the
weapons and ammunition of the colonists. The colonists, much to the surprise of
the British, fought back. The results of this action, fought at Concord Bridge,
were the "shot heard 'round the world" against the tyranny of King
George III, and the eventual independence of the United States.
The social contract which created the legal foundations for our Republic is
called the Constitution of the United States. Appended to it is a Bill of
Rights, which enumerates a list of some of the more important examples of our
inalienable and inherent rights. These rights can not be "taken away",
nor can these amendments be repealed without breaking the social contract that
the Constitution embodies.
It looks like the people who want to preserve their Second Amendment rights
are losing out to those who would wish to destroy and nullify our ability to
freely exercise our inalienable Constitutional right to keep and bear arms. The
Brady Bill, which mandates a waiting period of five days for the purchase of
handguns has now passed, thanks to the combined efforts of Bob Dole and George
Mitchell, who gave their assent to a unanimous consent decree in order to pass
it. According to Dole, "All of us are happy to have this issue behind us,
after a long, long, hard fight, Jim Brady has won." (NY Times, 25 Nov 1993,
p1). The Crime Bill, which outlaws manufacture, transfer, and possession of
certain semiautomatic weapons and all magazines capable of containing more than
10 rounds has passed the Senate.
More restrictive measures, such as the law providing for the confiscation of
all handguns in the possession of civilians, are being actively considered. The
time may soon come when all currently law-abiding gunowners will have to make an
agonizing decision: Either turn over your guns to the friendly policemen
standing on your front doorstep with their guns drawn in case you might decide
to make a foolish move, or resist and die in a blaze of gunfire. Or worse yet,
be held against the floor, guns pointed at the heads of you, your wife and your
children, while police ransack your house, ripping open furniture, destroying
walls, ceilings and floors, searching for concealed weapons. If any are found,
they will cause you to lose your house and possessions in a civil asset
forfeiture action, and will be used as evidence in a trial to send you to prison
for a long stretch. You might get them to make a deal, though. They will offer
you your freedom if you will inform on your friends. These methods have been
fine-tuned for the past 10 years in the War on Drugs; now, it is time to use
them against those who would wish to preserve their Second Amendment rights:
"A well-regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the People to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
There are many who idly boast to their friends at work that the police will
never get their guns, or who have bumper stickers saying "They'll get my
guns when they pry them from my cold, dead hands." These are empty words,
without force; these people, when confronted with a SWAT team on their front
doorstep, will surrender immediately, as they have been taught to do, by the
schools at first, and then by the "news" media.
The first clause of the Second Amendment speaks of a "well-regulated
militia". Look around you, at the various people you see at gun shows; look
at the people in your gun clubs: Are these people part of a "well-regulated
militia" ?
Are they well-drilled in small-unit tactics and the use of expedient methods,
in the use and care of military weapons, as any militia should be? Are you part
of a local militia such as the Swiss have in their cantons, and do you train for
two weeks each year, from the time you are 16 until you are 60? Have you learned
about communications nets and emergency medicine, tactics and strategy, and the
other things needed to become "well-regulated"?
The majority of us have become fat, dumb, and lazy, depending on the courts
to interpret the Constitution for us, on the Congress to feed us and supply all
of our needs, and on the various standing armies (such as your local, state, and
federal police agencies) to enforce the plethora of laws, rules, and regulations
written by Congress and the bureaucracy. If the Second Amendment is so infringed
upon by various administrative laws and regulations so as to have utterly no
meaning, it is the fault of those of you who have been too lazy and complacent
to act on your Constitutionally- mandated duty to form a "well-regulated
militia".
It has been suggested that it might be a good idea to develop a kit which
could be used to circumvent attempts at weapons confiscation, and to prepare for
a massive campaign of civil disobedience to such unconstitutional, and therefore
invalid, laws. We have developed such a kit from commonly obtainable materials,
and present here instructions for its construction and use.
Note: If at this point you are seriously considering burying your
weapons, consider this: You aren't burying them so that one fine, crisp, cool
fall day, you can dig them up and go hunting for deer. You aren't burying them
so that you can go to the range and shoot at paper targets, or metallic
silhouettes. You are burying them so that you can resist, by force of arms if
necessary, a government that has turned tyrannical, that offers you nothing but
the shackles of slavery. You are burying them so you can turn into a member of
the "well-regulated" unorganized militia, sworn to uphold the
Constitution. When you dig up those weapons you have buried, you will be in
violation of a whole raft of laws, your home and assets will most likely be
forfeited to the State. If caught, you may be prosecuted and jailed, if lucky;
if not, you may be executed on the spot by a Weapons Confiscation Unit.
You should not expect to be able to go home after a hard days'
"hunting", since home most probably will be incinerated and bulldozed
into the ground; if you are lucky, Federal agents may just decide that they want
to own your possessions, and seize your house and property and live in it, or
turn it into some instant cash, by selling it to the highest bidder at an
auction in the front yard. If you get hurt, don't expect to be able to call an
ambulance to get to a hospital, or get any sort of medical care. Also, forget
about going to a grocery store and spending a couple of hours shopping for food.
Food will be what you can get, when you can get it.
If you really want to freeze like the Continental Army did at Valley Forge,
dying of cold and starvation, having no shoes but rags, and having very little
hope of ever seeing "the good life" again, then you should consider
what this course of action entails. Most people cannot use a map and compass,
much less cross rough terrain swiftly on foot. Most people do not know how to
set up secure communications nets. Very few people outside of the military know
how to do anything with explosives, or treat any medical emergency more severe
than a cut or bruise. Even fewer people know small-unit tactics or how to gather
and process intelligence. Command, Control, Communications, and Intelligence are
a mystery to most people, and this includes most people who would be burying
their weapons. On top of all of this, you must set up an organization, perhaps
modeled on that adopted by the French Resistance during the Second World War, of
cells of no more than five people, which know only what they need to know. Read
the history of that organization (FFI), and then consider if you really want to
go through with this course of action.
For now, there IS an alternative. You can become active, truly ACTIVE, in a
local organization. This means that you go door to door, talking to all of your
family, friends and neighbors; you deluge your legislators with letters and
phone calls on the Second Amendment issues that affect you; you VOTE for those
who support your ability to freely exercise your Second Amendment and other
Constitutional rights, you give money and your unstinting efforts to their
campaigns, and you work hard to get your family, friends and neighbors to vote
for them.
There is a list of such organizations in the last part of this Series, along
with a list of computer bulletin board systems which you can use to communicate
with other like-minded people and get the news on current events.
It is far preferable to use the democratic process to work to secure the
rights for which our forefathers gave their lives, at Bunker Hill, at Valley
Forge, and all the other blood-soaked battlefields in the American Revolution,
than to have to suffer the sort of privation and starvation that they suffered,
facing the possibility of death by enemy fire or by hanging, as rebellion was,
and still is, a treasonable offence punishable by death.
If there is still the least ray of hope that you, with many millions of
others, can work peacefully to influence the course of events so that our
government, instituted to secure our unalienable rights to Life, Liberty, and
the pursuit of Happiness, can veer from the road to tyranny back to the way of
Freedom, then go immediately to the last article in the Series. Contact and join
those organizations, and become ACTIVE in them. Only if you think that there is
no other way to proceed, if you have lost all hope of reforming our current
system of government and bringing it back in conformance with the Constitution,
then read on.
Section 2. Equipment List for Cache Kit:
The kit consists of the following:
1.] 1 PVC 6" inside diameter plastic pipe, 60" long. 1 PVC end
cap, non-threaded, to fit pipe. (Note: If you have gophers or other burrowing
animals in the vicinity of the burial site, use ABS pipe instead of PVC. It is
more resistant to damage, but is a bit more expensive.)
2.] 1 ABS screw cap 6" inside diameter, with square lug. 1 ABS end
cap adapter, 6" inside diameter, with threads inside, to fit pipe.
3.] 1 weapons retrieving rod (ABS 0.5" plastic pipe) with 2 nylon
cords attached, one upper, one lower.
4.] 1 PVC end cap wrench.
5.] 10 ultra-absorbent diapers
6.] 5 lb. silica gel desiccant.
7.] 2 pair nylon pantyhose
8.] 8 six-bushel non-biodegradable plastic garbage bags
9.] 1 roll of Teflon tape.
10.] 1 small kitchen garbage bag (plastic) and 5" rubber band.
Figure 1. Schematic
Diagram of Assembled Cache Kit.
Section 3. Instructions for Making Your Own Kit:
Item 1: 6" PVC DS 3000 lb crush PVC sewer pipe MS ASTN D2729, with end
cap.
The 6" PVC sewer pipe is available from any plumbing supply store, as is
the end cap. Hardware stores may carry this pipe, as well. This pipe can also be
found on large construction sites, and in new houses where it is used for waste
water pipe to sewer mains. Use a 5 foot (60") long piece. The end cap for
the bottom end is 3" deep. We used Multi Purpose Cement, available from
True Value Hardware, for attaching the end cap to the pipe. This cement produces
a leakproof seal, and contains tetrahydrofuran (THF), methyl ethyl ketone (MEK),
and cyclohexanone chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (PVC). NOTE: If you have gopher
problems in the place where you will be placing the cache, use ABS pipe instead.
IF you do this, you will need to use ABS cement as well. This may be a little
bit more expensive.
Costs- 6" PVC pipe, 5' long: $16; end cap: $3; cement: $2.79/4 fl. oz.
Item 2: ABS plastic screw-in end cap adapter, and ABS screw-in end cap, with
2" square lug on outside end.
These are more or less the same as the adapter and end cap found in household
basement clean-out plugs. The cap and adapter assembly is about 12" long,
with 6" protruding out over the end of the pipe, for the threads of the end
cap. The screw-in cap must have standard threading - ours has seven
threads/inch, and is one inch deep. Attach the adapter to the pipe with the
Multi Purpose Cement as mentioned in Item 1, above.
Costs- End cap adapter and screw-in end cap, $3.
Item 3: Weapons retrieving rod.
We used a 4'6" long half-inch ABS plastic pipe, with two 3/8" holes
drilled in it, one hole at 3'6", and one at 1'6", and two five-foot
lengths of nylon cord inserted through the holes. Knot on either side of the
hole so there will be no slippage. We then attached a T-adapter to the end 1
foot away from the nylon cord (see Fig.1), and made it into a T-handle using 2
three-inch lengths of the half-inch ABS pipe. We capped the ends of the handle
with half-inch end caps. All plastic joints were cemented using the Multi
Purpose Cement as in Item 1, above. Wooden broom handles could also be used
here, as long as the possibility of breakage is accounted for. DO NOT USE METAL
PIPE FOR THIS COMPONENT
Costs- 5' half-inch PVC or ABS pipe @ $0.35/foot, $1.65; T-adapter @ $0.79,
$0.79; half-inch end caps @ $0.59, $1.18;
10 ft. nylon cord, $1.50.
Item 4: End cap wrench.
Get a 2" diameter piece of PVC pipe, cut to whatever length you decide
to bury the tube at. Drill one end to make a handle with a 3/8" diameter
foot-long length of pipe, preferably PVC also, and make four hacksaw cuts in the
other end, as deep as the lug on the screw in end cap protrudes, and sized to
fit the it snugly. See Fig. 1 for illustration.
Costs- 3' two-inch PVC or ABS pipe @ $0.70/foot, $2.10; 1 foot of 3/8"
dia. ABS pipe @ $0.50, $0.50.
Item 5: 10 ultra-absorbent disposable diapers.
We used the size for 25-30 lbs babies. One diaper was found to absorb one
quart of water, and keep it behind a vapor barrier, so ten diapers should be
quite sufficient to sop up whatever leakage may occur.
Costs- 36 pack ultra-absorbent disposable diapers @$9.00, 1 diaper @ $0.25,
$2.50 for ten.
Item 6: Silica Gel Desiccant.
This is available from arts and crafts stores, or from garden stores. It is
commonly used to dry flowers. To reactivate, heat at 250 degrees in your oven
overnight, or put on a plate in your microwave, and heat at the HIGH setting for
four minutes.
Costs- Five pounds Flower Art Silica Gel, $15.99; Activa Products, POB 1296,
Marshall, TX, 75670.
Item 7: Two pairs nylon pantyhose, new.
Use cheapies, but make sure that the weave is tight enough so that the silica
gel will not go through it.
Costs- 2 pair nylon pantyhose. $4.00
Item 8: Eight six-bushel garbage bags.
We got 100 of these on a roll from a local hardware store. Each bag is about
five feet long, and they are of relatively thick plastic.
Costs- 100 bags on a roll @ $8.00, 1 bag @ $0.08, 8 bags - $0.64
Item 9: 1 roll of Teflon tape.
Also known as plumber's joint tape, used to wrap joints in water pipe, and so
on. Should be 3/8" to 1/2" wide.
Costs- 1 roll Teflon tape, $2.00
Item 10: Plastic bag and rubber band.
Get a plastic bag from your kitchen, a small garbage bag will do fine, and a
long (5") rubber band.
Costs- bag, $0.05, rubber band, $0.05.
Total Cost of Materials: approximately $55, before tax. Prices may vary due
to discounts for bulk purchases, local taxes, and so on.
Using The Kit to Cache Weapons:
Preparation and Loading of Cache:
Step One:
Cut one pair of the pantyhose in half. Fill one of the pieces with a pound of
the silica gel desiccant. Knot snugly at the top, and wrap the rest of the
material down towards the toe of the sock. If there is enough left over, knot
the end of the material. Place the weapon to be cached butt down in one of the
garbage bags, and place the desiccant bag next to the receiver. Press all the
air out of the bag, and knot at the top. Take this bag with weapon enclosed, and
insert it muzzle first into another garbage bag. Press all of the air out, and
knot shut. Place this bag with weapon enclosed into another garbage bag, butt
first. Press all the air out, and knot shut. Place this bag with weapon enclosed
in another garbage bag, muzzle first. Press out all of the air, and knot
securely. The weapon and desiccant bag should now be enclosed in four (4)
plastic garbage bags. The garbage bags should conform to the shape of the
weapon, with as few air pockets as possible.
Step Two:
The bagged weapon is tied, muzzle first, to the retrieving rod. Use the cord
closest to the T-handle: tie a square knot around the muzzle of the weapon,
either below the bayonet lug, or below the front sight. The second cord is then
tied around the stock at the trigger guard.
Repeat Steps One and Two for the second weapon, if any.
Step Three:
Fill each leg of the second pair of pantyhose with 1.5 lbs of silica gel
desiccant. Knot each leg directly above the desiccant gel, and then push the
resulting bags through the remaining material toward the top end of the
pantyhose. Knot each end again, if possible. You should have two bags of
desiccant connected by a strip of pantyhose. Drape these bags over the top nylon
cord on the weapons retrieval rod, so that each bag hangs alongside the muzzle
of each weapon.
Step Four:
Fit one of the absorbent diapers to the butt end of each weapon, ABSORBENT
MATERIAL FACING DOWN (inside out). Use the tapes on the diapers to secure them
snugly. Each diaper is capable of absorbing 1 qt of water. Take the remaining
diapers and place them, absorbent side down, in the long PVC tube.
Step Five:
Slide the weapons retrieving rod, with weapons attached, into the cache. Make
sure the T-handle is closest to the end cap which screws in, BEFORE you insert
the weapons.
Step Six:
Use the Teflon tape to cover the threads of the end cap, by wrapping it onto
the end cap. Cover all of the threads, and go over the threads twice. Make sure
that the tape is wrapped on tight, so when you screw in the end cap it does not
come loose. Screw in the end cap, and use plastic bag and rubber band to protect
seal. The tube is now ready for burial.
An alternate idea is given below:
A reader proposes the following:
"I've wondered about an alternative method that would be a one-time
affair. Pack the weapon as you describe and then rather than thread the cap,
cement that sucker and use a hacksaw to get at it? Granted, reburying would be
more difficult, but you'd have more confidence of a leak-proof seal. I'd be
concerned about temperature extremes popping the top or caving it. I presume
you've done some experiments."
Using this proposal, reburial would be impossible, but the seal would be
*guaranteed* watertight. One possible thing to worry about is the buoyancy of
the cache tube. The weight of the weapons and ammo should be sufficient to
weight it down, but the user needs to check the local water table. If water
comes up in the bottom of the hole, then there may well be a problem with
buoyancy; there may also be problems with water coming into the tube via
hydrostatic pressure. In this case, the tube should either be moved to another
location where this problem does not exist, or, if there is no better
alternative, the user should Teflon-tape the screw threads up to 3/4" of
the top, then apply ABS or PVC glue, as mentioned in the assembly procedure for
Component 1, to the top 3/8" of the cap. The cap should then be screwed in,
to finger tight, then turn with a wrench 1/8 turn. The user should then make a
bead of glue on top of the joint where cap meets adapter, and glue a
water-proofing sheet (used in lining shower stalls before pouring concrete)
which has been cut to fit the top, to the top of the cache tube. The place where
the sheet has been cut to accept the square lug should be glued, as should the
area at the circumference of the sheet. This should provide a waterproof seal.
The tube will have to be dug up to recover the contents, if it has been
buried. A strong metal wrench will be required to break the seal, if it is
desired to attempt to reuse the cache tube. Otherwise, a hacksaw blade can be
used to cut the BOTTOM cap off. DO NOT CUT OFF THE TOP. It will take a long
time, and there is a danger of harm to the contents of the tube. Using this
method, the cache tube will be rendered UNUSABLE for further use.
REMEMBER, "THINK TWICE, CUT ONCE!"
Burial of Cache Tube:
This is the least desirable method of using the cache tube, as the
instruments used for detection are very advanced, and the possibility of
detection and seizure are highest. As David Josephson writes:
"You touched on an area that I actually have quite some experience with.
I started and for several years ran the military magnetic division of the
company that makes the current ferrous ordnance locator for the Navy (both the
land portable and diver-held versions) and for ten years before that ran the
airborne magnetic survey systems group of the same company. The magnetic
signature of any long weapon you cache will be at least as large as that of the
pipe, so if you are concerned about magnetic detection of caches, you have a
separate and very big problem. Likewise the conductivity anomaly of a plastic
pipe buried in more or less conductive soil will be detectable with most ground
penetrating radar even if the pipe is empty. The barrel of any weapon, or a
cache of ammo, will have a major conductivity anomaly even if nonferrous and
will be detectable to substantial ranges with a normal hobbyist metal
detector."
John De Armond also notes that: "The Whites detector is barely affected
by metal placed almost on TOP of the sensing head. The sensitivity is directed
DOWN."
There are methods to use to get around this, as John De Armond writes:
"You MIGHT be able to seed the soil with ferric chloride (something the
Park Service has done around Gettysburg in an attempt to thwart relic hunters)
in order to make the soil very conductive but even that is likely to backfire.
The technician can tell by looking what kinds of soils are conductive and/or
iron-laden and if your soil seems odd, that might just be all that is needed to
bring in the bulldozers."
Another method is to use lots of decoys: bury in a junkyard or a dump, where
a lot of metallic debris is lying around. There are lots of places out in the
woods where people have dumped old stoves, washing machines, old cars, and other
junk, which would make a good place for a cache. The trick is to make it such
that the cache tube does not stick out, so that its magnetic signature is just
one of many similar signatures in the immediate vicinity. The junk pile should
be pre-existing - you shouldn't go out and create your own. It would also be a
good thing if there were quite a few junk piles of this sort around, so that
only a few of them would be used as cache sites. The tube, in this case, need
not be vertical; it can lie on a diagonal or be horizontal, just as long as it
is well-camouflaged, both with regard to visual appearance and magnetic
signature. The weapons cache should be SURROUNDED on all sides, except perhaps
on the bottom of the cache by other things which have magnetic signatures. It
should NOT be placed UNDER a bunch of junk, but SURROUNDED on the SIDES, TOP,
and maybe the bottom. In other words, a lot of the junk should be buried in
dirt, gravel, or whatever. Since bulldozers may be brought in to dig things up,
you should make appropriate provision for this as well.
BY NO MEANS SHOULD YOU BURY A CACHE IN YOUR BACKYARD, unless your yard is the
city dump, or you live in a mountainous rural area, or you have a cave nearby.
If you live in a suburban area, you might want to take this advice from John De Armond:
"Joe Sixpack's not gonna fight the revolution from the 'burbs regardless
of the number of guns and ammo he buries in his back yard. The last thing you
will be permitted the luxury to do when the revolution starts is huddle up in
your 'burban bunker and ride it out. If the government doesn't root you out,
others will. I've never understood the survivalists' obsession with bunkering
in. Too many Rambo and Mad Max movies, I guess. It has NEVER worked. The people
who survive will be those who are mobile. Mobility and huge caches of materiel
are mutually exclusive. I know that (God help me) if I am unfortunate enough to
be anywhere near an urbanized area when the fighting starts, all I need is
sufficient weaponry to get started. I'll simply take whatever else I need from
the sheep. I suggest that anyone who is seriously interested in surviving and
perhaps prospering in a guerrilla warfare environment would be well served to
study Viet Cong tactics. They did quite a fine job against the same people and
mentality as we would be fighting."
Placement in or around reinforced concrete structure:
This is a distant second best, depending on where the structure is located.
High traffic locations are worse than option A, low traffic locations are better
than the following option. Keep in mind that obvious, and not-so-obvious, sites
may be under surveillance, either by remote camera, or from the air. Same advice
as above: make sure that there's lots of other magnetic interference from
reinforcing bars and so on, so the cache won't stick out. Try to bury in a place
which will stay dry.
Placement in dry or wet cave, old mineshaft, well, etc.
The Best Option...If the cave is far enough below ground (>30 ft) there is
little need to worry about placement, just make sure you know the cave, and can
keep the location relatively secret; the cave should not be well-known by
others. For a wet cave, place out of the flow of water, if any.
Assemble the tubes, with weapons and everything else in them, AT HOME.
Do not do this at the burial site. The tubes, with weapons, will weigh
between 75 and 100 pounds, each. Each weapon should be buried with at least one,
preferably two, loaded magazines. These magazines should be enclosed in the
plastic bags with the weapons, attached (but not inserted) to the stock of the
weapon, with nylon cord, one at the shoulder of the weapon, one next to the
receiver and trigger-guard. The tubes have been designed with the SKS rifle in
mind - the clearances are such that thumbhole stocks, and any other kind of
stock with protruding grips WILL NOT FIT. Check your weapons BEFORE you get to
the time that you want to bury them. A standard 12-gauge shotgun will fit fine,
as well.
DO NOT BUNCH UP TUBES.
Bury them as far apart as possible, so that if one is found, the others might
be spared.
BURY MOST OF YOUR AMMUNITION IN A SEPARATE PLACE.
Also, if there is any space left over on the top of the tube, put in some
MREs and MRE heat packs. They are non-metallic, relatively inexpensive, and you
might appreciate the fact that you did so when you come to dig the weapons
up...If you bury loaded magazines, put them in the bags with the weapons and
desiccant.
THINK ABOUT, AND PLAN FOR, WHAT YOU WILL NEED IN TERMS OF CONCEALMENT WHEN IT
COMES TIME TO DIG UP THE WEAPONS.
Don't bury in an open field, or where you can be easily seen from afar,
without you or lookouts first noticing that you are being observed. The site
should be located so as to take advantage of relatively unchanging natural
landmarks, at least for the anticipated life of the cache. The site should be
accessible to people on foot, but inaccessible to heavy machinery, such as
bulldozers. If there are lots of old mines or caves in your area, these may
offer possible cache sites. Soft ground can be used to deny access, or steep
inclines, as near roadways.
Check concealment - you could use a garbage dump where there are lots of old,
heavy iron or steel household appliances or junked cars. Concealment is
relatively easy in this case. You can also use more natural, undisturbed sites,
especially if the soil is rocky. If you bury the tube in rocky soil, place a
large rock or two in the shaft about six inches above the tube, using the dirt
from the hole to fill the first six inches above the end cap. Fill the rest of
the hole with dirt, and camouflage the top appropriately. Disperse any fill dirt
that comes from the hole in an area at least 10 yards distant from the hole;
disperse evenly so there are no piles immediately apparent. Finally, locate
escape routes you can use to escape detection if your lookouts detect activity
near your location. Be aware that the Bad Guys may have infrared detection
devices which detect body heat as well as night vision glasses, so plan your
route accordingly.
Practice site location in areas where you will NOT be doing the burial - when
you go hunting, you can go hunting for hiding places as well as wild game.
Learn to look at locations with the following in mind:
Positions for lookouts,
Landmark identification and placement,
Accessibility,
Concealment,
Escape routes.
CAMOUFLAGE THE BURIAL SITE.
Take a Polaroid photo of the burial site BEFORE you dig the hole. Make the
site AFTER you are finished look like the site did BEFORE you did anything. BE
METICULOUS. WHEN FINISHED, BURN THE PHOTO AND SCATTER THE ASHES...
Let Only Those Who NEED TO KNOW, Know About Your Caches. The less other
people know about your buried weapons, the less they can tell the Bad Guys.
Assume your friends, relatives, and neighbors will be interrogated. ONE of them
will talk. If they know everything, or enough to give the Bad Guys some ideas,
your whole enterprise might be "down the tubes"...
Pat Myrto, at [email protected] suggests:
"I would also suggest including a warning regarding supplies, etc. Get
them locally, ALWAYS pay cash. No checks. No Visa, etc. Don't get stuff mail
order - especially stuff that would finger someone planing on not being a good
sheep. I speak of some of the books, and such. LEAVE NO PAPER TRAILS or as few
as possible. Attention is one thing one can live without.
"Also, many firearms are (regrettably) on 4473s. One should dream up a
credible cover story of having sold the weapon long ago to some individual in
East Egypt. Fake up a receipt, etc and have some friend sign it with other than
their name (so writing is different). Keep it around so it ages, won't appear to
have been made 3 days ago. Age in this context is years, not months. To be at
all credible, this can only be considered for weapons acquired years ago, NOT
recent acquisitions. Ain't perfect, but a lot better than nothing.
"Folks in urban areas have another problem: I have this mental picture
of Joe Sixpaks running out and burying stuff - a PVC tube every 20 feet within
50 miles of a city..."
So far as purchasing by mail order goes, it might be good to use a fake name,
or have one person do some bulk ordering... Be careful about the paper trail.
Use a postal money order, if possible. That way, your real name doesn't have to
be on it, and you can have the goods shipped to a place where you can get them,
also not using your real name. Use common sense and native ingenuity to figure
out how to do things without leaving a trail of clues.
FINALLY, NEVER FORGET, As John De Armond says,
"UNDERESTIMATING THE ENEMY IS THE WAY TO DIE."
When the goon squad comes it will be populated by men just as smart as you,
as well educated, better trained, with vastly more resources and all the time in
the world. These are the same goons who used tanks and flame throwers on the
Davidians, after all."
IF YOU DECIDE TO BURY WEAPONS, HERE ARE SOME OTHER THINGS YOU SHOULD BE
DOING:
Take up Orienteering as a sport.
This involves running a course cross- country, using a map and compass to
find check-points. This is good for your heart, lungs, and endurance, and
teaches you how to use a map and compass in a stressful situation.
Get an amateur radio license, if nothing else, the codeless Technician
license.
This gets you into Packet Radio, which gives you the capability to set up
communications networks. Set up a phone tree, so that you can get in touch with
friends quickly and easily. A knowledge of Morse Code might come in handy, as
well as the capability to build your own gear from scratch.
Take first-aid courses, up to and including (if possible) Emergency Medical
Tech courses.
Know what to do if a companion on a hunting trip has a medical emergency and
medical help is not readily available, or if he/she is accidentally wounded.
Know what supplies to carry, and which to have readily available in case it is
not easily possible to reach a hospital or emergency room.
Bury ammunition and food.
You should have at least 1000 rounds of ammo per weapon. You should also
bury, at a minimum, two weeks supply of food. The way to do this is to prepare
another PVC tube as above, including retrieval rod. At the bottom end of the
rod, secure your ammo, each 100 rounds in a heavy duty garbage bag (with 2 oz
Anhydrous Silica Gel desiccant in a sock) tied shut and tied to the rod with a
short piece of nylon cord. At the top end of the rod, do the same with MREs and
MRE heaters. Place the heaters in a garbage bag with desiccant tied in a sock,
and tie the bag shut. Attach to the rod with a short piece of nylon cord. Pierce
a hole in the end of the outside wrapper of each MRE, being careful not to break
the seal in the wrapper. Tie the MREs to the rod, using a short nylon cord
threaded through the hole and tied. Each tube you bury should contain at most
1000 rounds of ammo, and 2 weeks of food. If you bury six weapons, you should
bury six ammo/food cache tubes as well, remembering not to bury everything in
the same place; BURY TUBES NO CLOSER THAN 10 YARDS TO EACH OTHER AND NOT IN A
STRAIGHT LINE!
At least one of the food/ammo tubes should contain the following first-aid
kit together with survival medicine book (Mountaineering Medicine or the like,
check your local outdoors supply shop) :
| Amount | Description |
| 10 | 4"x7" Camouflaged Field Dressings (Compressed) |
| 5 | 3"x6 yard Camouflaged Gauze Bandages (Compressed) |
| 10 | 2"x2" Camouflaged Compress and Bandage (Compressed) |
| 5 | Petrolatum Impregnated Gauze Bandages |
| 1 | FirstAid Kit (Eye Dressing) |
| 1 | 10cc tube of sodium sulfacetamide eye ointment |
| 3 | rolls adhesive tape |
| 5 | rolls Transpore tape |
| 10 | 1/4cc ampules Ammonia Inhalant Solution |
| 1 | 100ml Povidone/Iodine Solution (Betadine Antiseptic) |
| 5 | 10ml tubes Povidone/Iodine/Petrolatum ointment |
| 100 | 1000mg tabletsAscorbic Acid, Buffered (Vitamin C) |
| 1 | tube of salt tablets (or small plastic bottle of iodized table salt) |
| 10 | 1-quart pkt of Gatorade/other glucose/electrolyte replacement |
| 1 | 60"x108" mylar Emergency Blanket |
| 20 | Instant Heat packets, 18-hour duration |
| 10 | Instant Cold packets |
| 1 | 72"x72" clear plastic sheet |
| 1 | 60" length 1/4" diameter Tygon tubing |
| 2 | intubation/airway kits |
| 2 | Tracheotomy kits |
| 1 | Ambu-bag |
| 2 | pair bandage scissors |
| 25 | assorted safety pins |
| 5 | Hemostats |
| 5ea | forceps (straight), forceps (curved) |
| 10 | packs butterfly closures |
| 10ea | packs 3/0 silk sutures with needle, packs 5/0 silk sutures with needle |
| 5 | dentist's probes/picks |
| 5 | prep blades (razor blades) |
| 10 | pair latex gloves, 3 Small, 3 Medium, and 4 Large |
| 100 | tablets Tylenol(with and without Codeine) |
| 50 ft | nylon cord (1/8" diameter) & assorted splinting materials |
| 3 | Anaphylaxis kits |
Use Ziploc plastic bags to store each component of the kit above, except for
the metal instruments (forceps, hemostats, probes) which should be wrapped in
cheesecloth, let sit overnight in dry oven at 250 degrees, and then placed in a
ziploc bag. One instrument per piece of cheesecloth, one per bag. The
medications (sodium sulfacetamide, Tylenol (with and without Codeine) should
actually be carried into the field as fresh as possible, at the time you
retrieve the caches. These medications should be part of your 72-hour kit (See
part 5b, Recommended Reading.)
Other Useful Items -
In addition, at least one tube should have a water purifying kit, which
includes a filtering device capable of filtering out Giardia and other
microorganisms (such as Katadyn or Insta-Pur), 1 bottle Halazone tablets, 1
bottle Potassium Iodide tablets, and a water storage bag. Also present should be
a pack of topographic maps of the immediate area, an orienteering compass with
mirror and tritium sighting marks, a "survival knife", a magnesium
firestarting block with flint rod, a Leatherman multipurpose tool (with pliers,
knife blade, screwdrivers, file, and so on), a survival fishing kit (hooks,
handline, sinkers, bobbers, etc.), and a roll of non-reflective black duct tape.
It has been suggested to include a few gold or silver coins, and you might want
to do so, for luck...The best currency, if it comes down to it, probably won’t
be gold or silver. it’ll be more like lead, copper, brass, and odd-shaped
pieces of machined steel... things like that.
Recommended reading -
1. Emergency Preparedness Handbook for Missionaries, $7.95
2. A Year's Supply, $11.95
3. 72-Hour Family Emergency Preparedness Checklist, $8.95
4. SAS Survival Handbook, J. Wiseman, Collins-Harvill, 1993.
5. FM 21-76, Survival. Get the latest edition of this US Army
Field Manual. Usually can be found at gun shows or Army
Surplus shops. Also check into other Field Manuals, as they
may contain items of interest (See Part 9)
Supply Sources for First Aid Kit, MREs, and so on:
1. Emergency Essentials, Inc., 165 S. Mountain Way Dr., Orem,
Utah, 84058-5119. (800) 999-1863
2. Out N Back, POB 1279, Provo, Utah, 84603. (800) 533-7415.
3. Stat Medical Supply Co., 4555 South 300 West, Suite 500,
Murray, Utah, 84107. (801) 261-4363.
MREs and MRE heaters are sold at gun shows, as are many of the items listed
above, often at a substantial discount.
Please Read The Website Disclaimer!
Copyright 1986-2012, The Survival & Self-Reliance Studies Institute (SSRsi), All
Rights Reserved
Site conceptualized, designed, created & maintained by MEG Raven
Snail Mail: SSRsi, PO Box 2572 Dillon, CO. 80435-2572