TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.
THE SIEVE TRAP.—THE BRICK TRAP.—THE COOP TRAP—Improved Method of Setting.—Defects of the old style.
—THE BAT FOWLING NET.—Its Use in England.—How the Dark Lantern is Used by Bird Catchers.—THE CLAP 
NET.—Its Extensive Use in Foreign Countries.—Decoy Birds.—The "Bird Whistle" used in place of decoy.—
Wonderful Skill attained in the Use of the Bird Whistle.—Selection of Trapping Ground.—THE BIRD WHISTLE 
Described.—Its Use and Marvelous Capabilities.—THE WILD GOOSE TRAP.—Its Extensive Use in the Northern 
Cold Regions for the Capture of the Goose and Ptarmigan.—Tame Goose Used as Decoys.—Gravel as Bait.—THE 
TRAP CAGE.—A Favorite Trap among Bird Catchers.—Call Birds.—THE SPRING NET TRAP.—Rubber Elastic as 
Spring Power.—A SIMPLER NET TRAP.—Common Faults in many Bird Traps.—Complicated Construction as 
Unnecessary Feature.—Requisites of a good Bird Trap.—Hints on Simple Mechanism.—Different Modes of 
Constructing Hinge.—Hoop Iron Used as Spring Power.—Manner of Tempering Spring.—THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.
—A Second Method of Constructing Platform.—THE BOX OWL TRAP.—Ventilation a Desirable Feature in all Box 
Traps.—Tin Catch for Securing Cover in Place.—Peculiar Mode of Baiting for Birds.—Modification of Perch.—
Baiting for the Owl.—Locality for Setting.—The Owl in Captivity.—Its Food.—Hints on the Care of the Bird.—THE 
BOX BIRD TRAP.—Cigar Box Used as a Trap.—THE PENDANT BOX TRAP.—Ventilation.—Simple Mechanism.—
Care in Construction of Bearings.—THE HAWK TRAP.—A "Yankee" Invention.—Stiff-Pointed Wires Effectually Use 
in the Capture of the Hawk.—Owl also Captured by the Same Device.—THE WILD DUCK NET.—Its Use in 
Chesapeake Bay.—Manner of Constructing the Net.—Decoy Ducks.—Bait for the Ducks.—THE HOOK TRAP.—Its 
cruel Mode of Capture.—Peculiar Bait for Ducks.—THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.—Its Successful Use in the Capture 
of the Crow.—Shrewdness of the Crow.—Strange antics of a Crow when Captured in the Trap.—Bird Lime the 
Secret of its Success.—Wonderful Tenacity of the Cap.—Different Modes of Setting.—BIRD LIME Described.—Its
astonishing "Sticky" Qualities.—The Bird Lime of the Trade.—Various "Home-Made" Recipes.—Manner of Using 
Bird Lime.—Limed Twigs.—The Owl Used as a Decoy in connection with Bird Lime.—Bird Lime used in the Capture 
of the Humming Bird.—A Flower Converted into a Trap.—Masticated Wheat as Bird Lime.—Its Ready Removal from
the Feathers.—Delicate Organization of the Humming Bird.—Killed by Fright.—Use of its Plumage.—Snares for the
Humming Bird.—Blow Guns Successfully Used for its Capture.—Killed by Concussion.—Disabled by a Stream of 
Water.

Among the following will be found the various net and cage traps commonly used in the capture of winged game, 
besides several other unique devices in the shape of box traps, etc., many of which are original with the author of 
this work and appear in the present volume for the first time in book form. Commonest among bird-catching 
machines, is the well known invention of

THE SIEVE TRAP.
This device certainly possesses one great advantage:—it is not complicated. Any one possessed of a sieve and a 
piece of string can get up the trap at two minutes' notice, and provided he has patience, and can wait for his little 
bird, he is almost sure to be rewarded for his pains,—if he wait long enough. This of course depends upon 
circumstances: when the birds are plenty and are not shy, it is a common thing to secure three or four at once in a 
very few minutes, while at other times an hour's patient waiting is unrewarded.

The trap consists only of a sieve tilted up on edge and thus propped in position by a slender stick. To this stick a 
string or thread is attached and the same carried to some near place of concealment, when the trapper may retire 
out of sight and watch for his "little bird." The ground beneath the sieve is strewn with bread crumbs, seed or other 
bait, and while the unsuspecting birds are enjoying their repast, the string is pulled and they are made prisoners. 
The sieve may be arranged with a spindle as described for the coop trap, page (68), and may thus be left to take 
care of itself. Where the birds are plenty and easily captured, the former method answers the purpose perfectly, but
when tedious waiting is likely to ensue the self-acting trap is better.

THE BRICK TRAP.
This is a very old invention, and has always been one of the three or four stereotyped specimens of traps selected 
for publication in all Boys' Books. It is probably well known to most of our readers.

Take four bricks, and arrange them on the ground, as seen in our engraving, letting them rest on their narrow sides.
If properly arranged, they should have a space between them, nearly as large as the broad surface of the brick. A 
small, forked twig of the shape shown in the separate drawing (b) having a small piece cut away from each side of 
the end, should then be procured. Next cut a slender stick, about four inches in length, bluntly pointed at each end. 
A small plug with a flat top should now be driven into the ground, inside the trap, about three inches from either of 

the end bricks and projecting about two inches from the ground. The trap is then ready to be set. Lay the flat end of 
the forked twig over the top of the plug, with the forks pointing forward, or toward the end of the enclosure nearest 
the plug. The pointed stick should then be adjusted, placing one end on the flat end of the fork, over the plug, and 
the other beneath the fifth brick, which should be rested upon it. The drawing (b) clearly shows the arrangement of 
the pieces. The bait, consisting of berries, bird-seed, or other similar substances should then be scattered on the 
ground on the inside of the enclosure. When the bird flies to the trap he will generally alight on the forked twig, 
which by his weight tilts to one side and dislodges the pieces, thus letting fall the sustained brick.

It is not intended to kill the bird, and when rightly constructed will capture it alive. Care is necessary in setting the 
topmost brick in such a position that it will fall aright, and completely cover the open space. This is a very simple 

and effectual little contrivance, and can be made with a box instead of bricks, if desired. A piece of board may also 
be substituted for the top brick, and the enclosure beneath made larger by spreading the bricks further apart, thus 
making a more roomy dungeon for the captive bird.

THE COOP TRAP.
This is another excellent device for the capture of birds and large feathered game, and is used to a considerable 
extent by trappers throughout the country. Like the brick trap, it secures its victims without harm and furnishes the
additional advantage of good ventilation for the encaged unfortunate. Any ordinary coop may be used in the 
construction of this trap, although the homely one we illustrate is most commonly employed on account of its 
simplicity and easy manufacture. It also does away with the troublesome necessity of carrying a coop to the trapping
ground, as it can be made in a very few minutes with common rough hewn twigs by the clever use of the jack knife. 

The only remaining requisites consist of a few yards of very stout Indian twine, several small squares of brown 
pasteboard, a dozen tacks and a number of pieces of board five inches square, each one having a hole through its 
centre, as our engraving (b) indicates. Having these, the young trapper starts out with material sufficient for several
coops, and if he is smart will find no difficulty in making and setting a dozen traps in a forenoon.

In constructing the coop, the first thing to be done is to cut four stout twigs about an inch in thickness and fifteen 
inches in length and tie them together at the corners, letting the knot come on the inside as our illustration (a) 
explains and leaving a loose length of about two feet of string from each corner. This forms the base of the coop.

Next collect from a number of twigs of about the same thickness, and from them select two more corresponding in 
length to the bottom pieces. Having placed the base of the coop on the ground, and collected the strings inside 
proceed to lay the two selected sticks across the ends of the uppermost two of the square, and directly above the 
lower two. Another pair of twigs exactly similar in size should then be cut and laid across the ends of the last two, 
and directly above the second set of the bottom portion, thus forming two squares of equal size, one directly over 
the other. The next pair of sticks should be a trifle shorter than the previous ones and should be placed a little
inside the square. Let the next two be of the same size as the last and also rest a little inside of those beneath 
them, thus forming the commencement of the conical shape which our engraving presents. By thus continuing 
alternate layers of the two sticks cob-house fashion, each layer being closer than the one previous, the pyramid will 
be easily and quickly formed. After ten or a  dozen sets have been laid in place, the arm should be introduced into 
the opening at the top, and the four cords  drawn out, letting each one lay along its inside corner of the pyramid. 
Taking the strings loosely in the left hand and having the twigs in readiness, proceed to build up the sides until the 
opening at the top is reduced to only four or five inches across. The square board will now come into play. Pass the
ends of the cords through the hole in its centre and rest the edge of the board on the top pair of sticks, taking care 
that it is the tip of the grain of the wood instead of its side, as otherwise it would be likely to crack from the pressure 
that is about to be brought upon it. 

Have ready a stout peg of hard wood, and laying it over the hole in the board, and between the strings, proceed to 
tie the latter as tightly as possible over it. By now turning the peg, the cords will be twisted and tightened and the 
various pieces of the coops will be drawn together with great firmness, in which state they may be secured by the 
aid of a tack driven in the top board against the end of the peg as shown at (b). Thus we have a neat and 
serviceable coop, which will last for many seasons. To set the affair it is necessary to cut three sticks of the shapes 
shown in our illustration. The prop piece is a slender forked twig about ten inches in length from the tip to the base
of the crotch. The spindle is another hooked twig of the same length: the bait piece is quite similar to the latter, only 
an inch shorter and supplied with a square notch at the tip. It is also slightly whittled off on the upper side to receive
the square of pasteboard or tin, which is to hold the bait and which may be easily fastened in place by a tack. All of 
these twigs may be easily found in any thicket by a little practice in searching. In setting the trap, it is only 
necessary to raise up one side of the coop to the height of the prop stick, insert the short arm of the spindle 
through the fork and beneath the edge of the coop. While holding it thus in position, hook the crotch of the bait stick
around the lower piece at the back of the coop, and pushing the end of the spindle inside the coop, catch it in the
notch of the bait stick where it will hold, and the trap is ready to be baited. The bait may consist of oats, wheat, 
"nannie berries" or the like, and should be strewn both on the platform and over the ground directly beneath and 
around it. If properly set, a mere peck at the corn will be sufficient to dislodge the pieces and the coop will fall over 
its captive. 

It is not an uncommon thing to find two or even three quail encaged in a trap of this kind at one fall, and after the 
first momentary fright is over, they seem to resign themselves to their fate and take to their confinement as naturally
as if they had been brought up to it. The method of setting the coop trap above described is a great improvement 
on the old style of setting, and is an improvement original with the author of this work. 

In the old method a semi-circular hoop of rattan is used in place of the bait stick above. The ends of the rattan are 
fastened to one of the lower back pieces of the coop, and the hoop is just large enough to fit inside the opening of 
the coop. This rattan rests just above the ground, and the spindle catches against its inside edge in place of the 
notch in the bait stick already described, the bait being scattered inside the hoop. When the bird approaches, it 
steps upon the rattan, and thus pressing it downward releases the spindle and the coop falls; but experience has 
shown the author that it does not always secure its intruders, but as often falls upon their backs and sends them off 
limping to regain their lost senses. By the author's improvement it will be seen that the whole body of the bird must 
be beneath the coop before the bait sticks can be reached and that when properly set it is absolutely certain to 
secure its victim. The author can recommend it as infallible, and he feels certain that anyone giving both methods a 
fair trial will discard the old method as worthless in comparison.

THE BAT FOWLING NET.
With English bird-catchers this contrivance is in common use, but so far as we know it has not been utilized to any 
great extent in this country. It is chiefly used at night by the aid of a lantern, and large numbers of sparrows and 
other birds are often secured.

Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the net, which may be constructed as follows: Procure two light flexible 
poles, about eight feet in length; to the tip of each a cord should be attached, and the same secured to the middle 
of the pole, having drawn down the tip to the bend, shown in our engraving. The two bent ends should now be 
attached together by a hinge of leather. A piece of mosquito netting is next in order, and it should be of such a size 
as to cover the upper bent halves of the poles, as seen in the illustration—the bottom edge being turned up into a 
bag, about ten inches in depth. The contrivance is now complete, and is used as follows: 

Three persons are generally required, and a dark night is chosen. Hay stacks, evergreens, and thick bushes offer 
a favorite shelter to numerous small birds, and it is here that they are sought by the bird hunters. A breezy night is 
preferable, as the birds perch low, and are not so easily startled by unusual sounds.

Great caution, however, is used in the approach. One party holds the light, which is generally a dark lantern, 
another takes the net, and the third arms himself with a switch with which to beat the bushes. The net is first held 
upright about a foot from the bush, and the light thrown upon the back of it. The bush is then moderately beaten, 
and the birds affrighted and bewildered fly against the net, which is instantly closed. The bird is thus captured, and 
when a full roost can be discovered a large number may be taken in a single night. The lantern should be closed 
while not in actual use, and everything should be done as quietly as possible. The dark lantern in itself is useful 
without the net. The light often so bewilders the bird that it flies directly in the face of the lantern and flutters to the 
ground, where it may be easily taken with the hand.

THE CLAP NET.
In Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, this trap is a common resource for the capture of wild birds of various 
kinds. It may be called a "decoy" trap, from the fact that "call birds" are generally used in connection with it. They 
are placed at distances around the trap, and attract the wild birds to the spot by their cries. These birds are 
especially trained for the purpose, but almost any tamed bird that chirps will attract its mates from the near 
neighborhood, and answer the purpose very well. Sometimes the "decoys" are entirely dispensed with, and the 
"bird whistle" used in their stead. This will be described hereafter, and inasmuch as the training of a "decoy" would 
be a rather difficult matter, we rather recommend the use of the bird whistle. The skill and absolute perfection of
mimicry which is often attained by bird fanciers. with the use of this little whistle, is something surprising.

No matter what the species of bird—whether crow, bobolink, thrush or sparrow, the song or call is so exactly 
imitated as to deceive the most experienced naturalist, and even various birds themselves. Of course this requires 
practice, but even a tyro may soon learn to use the whistle to good advantage.

The clap net commonly used, is a large contrivance—so large that several hundred pigeons are often caught at 
once. It is "sprung" by the bird-hunter, who lies in ambush watching for the game. The net is generally constructed 
as follows, and may be made smaller if desired:—

Procure two pieces of strong thread netting, each about fifteen feet in length, and five feet in width. Four wooden 
rods one inch in thickness and five feet in length are next required. These may be constructed of pine, ash, or any 
other light wood, and one should be securely whipped to each end of the netting. 

Now by the aid of a gimlet or a red-hot iron, the size of a slate pencil, bore a hole through one end of every piece 
one inch from the tip, taking care that the ends selected lay on the same side of the net. The other extremities of 
the four poles should be supplied, each with a large screw eye. Four pegs are next in order—one of which is shown 
separate at (P). It should be about eight inches in length, and three inches in width, and an inch in thickness, and 
sharpened to a point at one end. The other end should be supplied with a notch two inches in depth and of such a 
width as will easily secure the perforated end of one of the poles already described. By the use of the gimlet or a 
red-hot nail, a hole should now be bored through the side of every peg across the centre of the notch for the
reception of a wire pin or smooth nail.

The nets may now be rolled up on the poles, and the trapper may thus easily carry them to his selected trapping 
ground. This should be smooth and free from stones and irregularities. Unroll the nets and spread them flatly on 
the ground, as seen in the illustration. Let the perforated ends of the poles be innermost, and allow a space of six 
feet between the inner edges of the nets. Draw the net flatly on the ground, and drive one of the notched pegs at 
each of the inside corners, securing the poles into the slots by the aid of the wire pins or nails. Next cut four stakes 
eight or ten inches long. The places for these may be seen by a look at our engraving. Each one should be 
inserted five feet distant from the notched peg, and exactly on a line with the inside edge of the net—one for each 
corner. They should slant from the net in every case. 

To each one of these stakes a stay rope should be secured, and the other end passed through the screw eye of 
the nearest pole, drawing the string tightly, so as to stretch the net perfectly square. Next, take a piece of cord, 
about twenty feet in length, and fasten it across the ends of the net into the screw eyes in the poles. This is the loop
to which the draw-string is attached, and either end of the net may be chosen for this purpose. 

To this loop and a little one side of the middle, the draw-string should be fastened. If secured exactly in the middle 
of the loop, the two nets will strike when the draw-rope is pulled, whereas when adjusted a little to one side, the
nearest net will move a trifle faster than the other, and they will overlap neatly and without striking—completely 
covering the ground between them. 

When the trap is spread the draw-rope should extend to some near shelter where the bird catcher may secrete 
himself from view. Spreading the bait on the ground between the nets, and arranging his call birds at the proper 
distances, he awaits his opportunity of springing his nets. At the proper minute, when the ground is dotted with his 
game, he pulls the draw-string, and the birds are secured.

Immense numbers of wild fowl are often captured in this way. The "bird whistle," already alluded to, is often used 
with good effect, it being only sufficient to attract the birds to such a proximity to the net as will enable them to spy 
the bait, after which their capture is easily effected.

THE BIRD WHISTLE.
This instrument, also known as the prairie whistle, is clearly shown in our illustration. It is constructed as follows: 

First, procure a piece of morocco or thin leather. From it cut a circular piece one inch and a quarter in diameter. 
Through the centre of this disc, cut a round hole, one-third of an inch in diameter. A semicircular piece of tin is next 
required. It should be of the shape of an arc, as seen in our illustration; its width across the ends being about 

three-quarters of an inch, and its entire length being pierced with a row of fine holes. Next procure a piece of thin 
sheet India rubber or gold beater's skin. Cut a strip about an inch in length by half an inch in width, and lay one of 
its long edges directly across the opening in the leather disc. Fold the leather in half (over the rubber), and draw
the latter tightly. Next lay on the arc of tin in the position shown in the illustration, and by the aid of a fine needle 
and thread sew it through the holes, including both leather and rubber in the stitches. 

When this is done, the whistle is complete. If the gold beater's skin is not attainable, a good substitute may be found
in the thin outer membrane of the leaf of a tough onion or leak, the pulp being scraped away.

To use the whistle, place it against the roof of the mouth, tin side up, and with the edge of the rubber towards the 
front. When once wet, it will adhere to the roof of the mouth, and by skilful blowing, it can be made to send forth a 
most surprising variety of sounds. The quack of the duck and the song of the thrush may be made to follow each 
other in a single breath, and the squeal of a pig or the neigh of a horse are equally within its scope. In short, there 
is scarcely any animal, whether bird or quadruped, the cry of which may not be easily imitated by a skilful use of the 
prairie whistle, or, indeed, as it might with propriety be called, the "menagerie whistle."

THE WILD GOOSE TRAP.
In our northern cold regions, where the wild geese and ptarmigan flock in immense numbers, this trap is commonly 
utilized. It consists merely of a large net fifty feet in length, and fifteen in width, arranged on a framework, and
propped in a slanting position by two poles, after the manner of the sieve trap. It is generally set on the ice; and the
trapper, after attaching his strings to the props, and sprinkling his bait at the foot of the net, retires to a distance to 
await his chances. Tame geese are often used as decoys, and sometimes the bird whistle already described is 
used for the same purpose. For the capture of the ptarmigan, the bait consists of a heap of gravel. It is hard to 
imagine a less tempting allurement, but as the food of the birds during the winter is sapless and hard, it becomes 
necessary for them to swallow a considerable amount of gravel to promote digestion. 

The great depth of the snow renders this commodity very scarce during the winter season; and the Indians, taking 
advantage of this fact, succeed in capturing immense numbers of the game in nets by the use of that simple 
allurement. The gravel is packed on the surface of a pile of snow, placed under the centre of the net, and the 
draw-string is carried to some neighboring shrubbery or place of concealment, where the trapper can always get at 
it without being seen by the birds under the net.

When everything is thus prepared, the hunters start out into the adjacent woods and willows, and drive their game 
toward the nets. This is generally an easy matter, and, no sooner do the birds come in sight of the heap of gravel, 
than they fly towards it en masse, and the ground beneath the net is soon covered with the hungry game. The 
hunter then goes to the end of the line, and, with a sudden pull, hauls down the stakes: the net fans over the birds, 
and they are prisoners.

Hundreds of ptarmigan are often thus caught by a single sweep of the net. The trap is simply arranged, and may be
constructed on a reduced scale for smaller birds, if desired.

THE TRAP CAGE.
Among bird-catchers generally, this is the favorite and most universal trap; and, where a decoy bird is used, it is 
particularly successful. The cage is arranged in two compartments, one above the other,—the lower one being
occupied by the call-birds. The making of the cage requires considerable ingenuity and much patience; and, for the
benefit of those who may desire to exercise that patient ingenuity, we will subjoin a few hints, which may help them 

along in their efforts. For an ordinary cage, the height should be about one foot, the broad sides the same, and the 
top and other two sides eight inches.

First cut four corner uprights. These should be three-quarters of an inch square, and one foot in length. Next cut a 
bottom board of pine, twelve inches by eight inches, and one inch in thickness. From each of its corners, cut a small
cube of the wood, exactly three-quarters of an inch square, thus leaving four notches, which will exactly receive the 

ends of the uprights, as seen at (a). Before adjusting these pieces, the four sides of the boards should be pierced 
with small holes, as is also shown in the diagram (a). These may be punched with a bradawl, and should be about 
half an inch apart, and three-eighths of an inch from the edge of the board. Each one of the uprights may then be 
secured in place by two long brads, one being hammered each way into each side of the notch. Next proceed to cut
four more of the square sticks. Two of these should be one foot in length, and the remaining two eight inches. The 
corners of these should now be neatly beveled off, so as to fit after the manner of a picture-frame. They should
then be attached to the upper ends of the uprights by a brad through the corner of each, as seen at (b), the dotted 
lines indicating the end of the upright beneath. These sticks should likewise be pierced with holes to correspond 
with those in the bottom board, and running up and down in the direction of the wires.

The middle tier of braces are next required. Two of these should be ten and a half inches in length, and the other 
two six and a-half, and the ends should be perfectly smooth. These should now be punched with holes 
corresponding with those above, after which they may be inserted between the uprights as seen in the engraving, 
and secured by a brad at each end.

The trap door is shown separate at (c). The side sticks should be eight inches in length, and one-half an inch 
square, and the top and bottom sticks five inches in length. They should be set in between the side sticks, and the 
lower one should be secured about half an inch above the lower ends of the uprights, as seen in the illustration. 

The holes should be made in the side pieces, and the wire run across from side to side, as shown. Annealed iron, 
or copper wire is best for this purpose. The door should now be pivoted or hinged at the top of the cage, between 
the long sides, in such a position as that the top end shall rest on one of the narrow upper edges of the cage. A stiff
wire should be used for the hinge, being passed through the top pieces of the cage into the lower ends of the door
pieces. The cage may now be wired throughout. This is an easy matter, if the holes are properly made. About thirty 
yards of the wire will be required: iron wire is generally used. It should be about the size of a hair-pin, and should 
work easily. Commence by passing it from the under side of the bottom board through one of the holes next to the 
corner. Pass the wire upward, through the centre braces, again upward through the top piece and across to the 
opposite broad side and corresponding hole. From this point it should pass downwards, through centre brace, and 
again through the bottom. Draw the wire tightly and passing it upward through the hole next to it, bring it over the 
top of the cage and around again to the bottom edge from which it started. Continue thus until the hinge of the door
is reached; after which the wire should be passed up and down on the same side and thus carried around the small 
end of the cage until it finally meets at the door hinge on the opposite side. 

The two halves of the cage should now be separated by a grating of wire, as seen in the main illustration. This may 
be accomplished either by passing the wire from side to side, around the base of each upright wire, or an additional
horizontal row of holes below the others may be punched for the purpose. The door through which the call-bird is 
introduced should next be made in the bottom section. There are two ways of doing this: one method consists in 
sawing a hole three inches square in the bottom board of the cage; and a cover consisting of a piece of tin is made 
to slide beneath the heads of four tacks, two of which are placed on each side of the opening. This form of door is 
perhaps the simplest of the two. The other is shown separate at (f), together with its mode of attachment. It consists
of two side pieces of wood, about a third of an inch square, and three inches in length, and two shorter ones, two 
inches in length. These are arranged into a square framework by a board in each corner. Four holes are to be 
pierced in each side piece, at equal distances. Commencing at the top, the door should then be wired as directed 
for the cage. The lowest hole on each side should be left open for a separate piece of wire. 

The cage should now receive attention. The broad side is generally selected for the door. Find the seven centre
wires and connect them across the middle by another horizontal bit of wire. This may be easily done with a pair of 
pincers, by compressing a loop at each end of the wire around the two which run perpendicularly at its ends. When 
this is performed the five intermediate wires should be cut off about a quarter of an inch below the horizontal wire, 
and the projecting tips looped back over the cross piece, and made fast by the pincers. The lower parts of the 
upright wires may now be cut off close to the board. We will now take up the door. Pass a piece of wire through the 
holes at the bottom, clap the door over the opening, and loop the ends of the projecting wire loosely around the 
upright wires at each side. This will allow the door to slide easily up and down. Another wire should now be 
interlaced downwards through the centre of the door, and bent into a ring at the top. Let the door rest on the 
bottom of the cage, and, while in this position, adjust the ring at the top around the central wire directly behind it. 
The door is then complete, and, if properly made, will look neat and work easily.

The "trap" at the top of the cage is next in order. To complete this it is first necessary to interweave a stiff wire loop, 
as seen at (d). The loop should extend on the inside of the lower piece of the door and about two inches below it. 
The spring power consists of a piece of stiff hoop-skirt wire, interwoven between the wires of the top of the cage, 
and those of the door, while the latter is shut. The force of this will be sufficient to bring down the door with a snap; 
and for further security a catch, such as is described in page (88), may be added if desired. The spindle is next 
required. This is shown at (g), and consists of a small perch of wood seven inches in length, and notched at each 
end. 

In setting the trap, the door should be raised as seen in the main illustration. One of the notches in the spindle 
should now be caught beneath the loop and the other around one of the central wires in the end of the cage. The 
bait, consisting of a berry, bird-seed, or what-not, may be either fastened to the spindle or placed beneath on the 
wires.

The call-bird having been introduced, the trap may now be left to itself. If the call-bird is well trained it will not be 
many minutes before the birds of the neighborhood will be attracted to the spot by its cries. Ere long one less 
cautious than the rest will be seen to perch upon the top of the cage. He soon discovers the bait, and alighting 
upon the perch, throws it asunder, and in an instant the trap door closes over its captive. The cage is sometimes 
constructed double, having two compartments beneath for call-birds, and two traps above, in general resembling 
two of the single traps placed side by side. The decoy bird is not an absolute necessity to the success of the trap. 
Many birds are caught simply by the bait alone. 

The trap cage, when constructed on a larger scale, is often successfully employed in the capture of the owl. In this 
case it is baited with a live mouse or bird, and set during the evening in a conspicuous place. A trap working on this 
principle, being especially adapted to the capture of the owl, will be noticed hereafter.

THE SPRING NET TRAP.
Although slightly complicated in construction, our next illustration presents one of the prettiest bird traps on record, 
and may be made in the following manner, and by frequently referring to the picture, our explanation will be easily
understood.

The first step is to make or procure a low flat box, about fifteen inches long, by ten inches in width, with a depth of 
about two inches. Next fasten an interior box, of the same height, leaving a space of about three-quarters of an 
inch between them all round. A platform should now be made. Let it be of such a size that it will just fit in the interior
box, with a very slight space all around its edge. It should then be pivoted in the upper part of this box by two small 
slender pins, one being driven through into its edge, at the centre of each end. Let it be sensitively poised. The 
next thing to be done, is to arrange the spindle and catch. The latter should consist of a tack or small bit of wood 
fastened on the middle of the platform, about an inch from one end, as seen both in the main illustration and in the 
diagram at (b).

The spindle should consist of a flat piece of wood, secured with a leather hinge to the edge of the outside box, 
directly opposite the catch. Let it be long enough to reach and barely hold itself beneath the catch. When thus in its
position, two small plugs should next be driven into the edge of the inner box, one on each side of the spindle, thus 
holding it in place. A glance at our illustration makes this clear. The netting and "hoop" are next in order. The hoop 
should consist of an iron wire of the diameter of common telegraph wire.

For a box of the size we have given, a length of about twenty-eight inches will be found to answer. Before making 
the hoop, however, its hinges should be ready for it. Two screw eyes, or staples of bent wire should be driven into 
the bottom of the box between the two walls, one in the exact middle of each side. The iron wire should now be bent 
so as to fit round and settle into the space between the boxes, letting each end rest over the screws in the bottom. 
It will be found that there will be enough surplus wire on each end to form into a loop with the pincers. These loops 
should be passed through the screws or rings already inserted, and then pinched together; the hinge will thus be 
made, and will appear as at (c). If properly done, they should allow the hoop to pass freely from one end of the box 
to the other, and settle easily between the partitions. If this hinge should prove too complicated for our young 
readers, they may resort to another method, which, although not so durable, will answer very well. In this case the 
wire will only need to reach to the exact middle of the long sides. No surplus being necessary, a length of twenty-six 
inches will be exactly right. On each end a short loop of tough Indian twine should be tied. By now fastening these 
loops to the bottom of the box with tacks, in the place of screws, it will form a hinge which will answer the purpose of 
the more complicated one.

The netting should consist of common mosquito gauze, or, if this cannot be had, any thin cloth may be substituted. 
It should be sewed fast to the iron wire, from hinge to hinge, and then, with the hoops resting in its groove, the 
netting should be drawn over the platform, and tacked to the bottom of the groove, on its remaining half. It should 
rest loosely over the platform to allow plenty of space for the bird.

But one more addition, and the trap is finished. We have mentioned the use of elastics in other varieties: they are 
of equal use here, and should be attached to the hoop as seen at (a) in the section drawing, the remaining ends 
being fastened to the bottom of the groove, as there indicated. These elastics should be placed on both sides, and 
stretched to such a tension as will draw the hoop quickly from one side to the other.

It will now be easy to set the trap. Draw the hoop back to the opposite end, tucking the netting into the groove; 
lower the spindle over it, resting it between the two little plugs, and securing its end beneath the catch on the 
platform. If the bait, consisting of bread-crumbs, berries, insects, or the like, be now sprinkled on the platform, the 
trap is ready for its feathered victim. It will easily be seen that the slightest weight on either side of this poised 
platform will throw the catch from the end of the spindle, and release the hoop and the platform in an instant is 
covered by the net, capturing whatever unlucky little bird may have chanced to jump upon it. This is a very pretty
little trap, and will well repay the trouble of making it.

A SIMPLER NET TRAP.
Much ingenuity has been displayed in the construction of bird traps of various kinds, but often the ingenuity has 
been misplaced, and the result has been so complicated as to mar its usefulness for practical purposes. The 
examples of net traps presented in this volume are so simple that the merest tyro can readily understand them. 
What can be more so than the present example, and yet it is as sure in its effect, and surer than those other 
varieties of more complicated construction. One necessary element in a trap of any kind is, that the bearings are 
slight and that they spring easily. To obtain this requisite it is necessary to overcome friction as much as possible,
using only a small number of pieces, and having as few joints and hinges only as are absolutely necessary. The
present variety possesses advantages on this account. It is constructed somewhat on the principle of the ordinary 
steel trap, and also resembles in other respects the one we have just described, although much simpler. We give 
only a section drawing, as this will be sufficient. 

The long side of a flat board of about eight by sixteen inches is shown at (a); (b) indicates the loops of a bent wire, 
to which the netting is attached, as in the trap just described, the loops being fastened to the board as in the other 
variety; (g) consists of a small bit of wood an inch or so in length and half an inch in width. It should be tacked on to 
the middle of the one end of the board and project about a half inch above the surface. To the top of this the 
spindle (c) should be attached by a leather or staple hinge. The spindle should be of light pine, five inches in length 
and a quarter of an inch square, beveled; on the under side of one end (d) is the catch or bait piece, and should be 
whittled out of a shingle or pine stick of the shape shown, the width being about a half an inch or less. One side 
should be supplied with a slight notch for the reception of the spindle, and the other should project out two or three 
inches, being covered on the top with a little platform of pasteboard, tin, or thin wood either glued or tacked in place. 

To attach this piece to the main board, two small wire staples may be used, one being inserted into the bottom end 
of the piece and the other being hooked through it, and afterward tacked to the bottom of the trap, thus forming a 
loop hinge. Another method is to make a hole through the lower tip of the bait piece by the aid of a red-hot wire, as 
seen at (d), afterwards inserting a pin and overlapping its ends with two staples driven into the bottom board, as 
shown at (e). In our last mentioned net trap the spring power consisted of rubber elastic, and the same may be used 
in this case, if desired, but by way of variety we here introduce another form of spring which may be successfully 
employed in the construction of traps of various kinds. It is shown at (o) and consists merely of a piece of tempered 
hoop iron, so bent as to act with an upward pressure. It should be about three inches long by half an inch wide. 
About three-quarters of an inch should be allowed for the two screws by which it is to be attached to the board. The 
rest should be bent upward and thus tempered by first heating almost to redness, and then cooling in cold water. 

One of these springs should be fastened to the board on each side, directly under the wire and quite near the 
hinge, in the position shown in the main drawing. Now draw back the net, lower the spindle and catch its extremity in 
the notch of the bait piece, and the trap is set as in our illustration. Sprinkle the bait on the platform, and lay the 
machine on the ground where birds are known to frequent; and it is only a matter of a few hours or perhaps 
minutes, before it will prove its efficacy. In order to prevent the bird from raising the wire and thereby escaping, it is 
well to fasten a little tin catch (f) at the end of the board. This will spring over the wire and hold it in its place.

THE UPRIGHT NET TRAP.
The following is another novelty in the way of a bird-trap, somewhat similar to the one we have just described, in its 
manner of working. 

Procure two pieces of board about a foot square. Nail one to the edge of the other, as represented in our 
engraving. A stout wire is the next requisite. It should be about thirty inches long, and bent either into a curve or into
two corners, making three equal sides. Each end of the wire should then be bent into a very small loop for the 
hinge. On to this wire the netting should then be secured as in the two previous examples, after which the ends of 
the wire may be tied with string or hinged on wire staples into the angle of the two boards, as seen in our illustration.

Allow the wire now to lie flat on the bottom board, and then proceed to tack the netting around the edges of the 
upright board. Two elastics should next be fastened to the wire on each side, securing their loose ends to the 
bottom of the trap. They should be tightly drawn so as to bring the wire down with a snap. The spindle of this trap 
should be about eight or nine inches long, square and slender,—the lower end being flattened, and the upper end 
secured to the top edge of the upright board by a hinge of leather or string.

An excellent hinge may be made with a piece of leather an inch and a half long, by half an inch in width, one half of 
the length being tied around the end of the spindle, and the other tacked on to the upper edge of the board.

The platform is given by itself at (a) in the same picture. It may be made of very thin wood—cigar box wood, for 
instance, or even thick pasteboard. It consists of three pieces. The piece which is hinged into the angle of the 
boards should be about three inches in length; the platform piece ought not to be more than four inches square, 
and the upright piece only long enough to reach the tip of the spindle when the platform is raised, as shown in our 
engraving. The hinge piece should be cut to an edge on that end where the leather is fastened, the opposite end 
being beveled off in order that the platform may rest and be tacked or glued firmly upon it. The diagram (a) will 
make this all very clear.

When the platform is all made and fastened in its place, the trap may be set. Draw the hoop back as far as possible,
and lower the spindle over its edge, catching it behind the upright stick on the platform. If the trap is properly
constructed, the pressure of the spindle on the platform will suffice to hold it up as seen in our illustration. The 
upright stick on the back of the platform should never be more than an inch and a half from the back of the trap. If 
need be, a slight notch may be made in the end of the spindle and a small tack driven into the back of the upright 
stick to correspond to it. By thus fitting the notch under the head of the tack, it will be sure to hold the platform in the
right position. But it should be carefully tested before setting, to see that it springs easily.

When thus set sprinkle the bait on the platform, scattering a little also on the bottom of the trap and on the ground 
directly around it. The little birds will soon spy the tempting morsels, and alighting on the trap are misled, and the 
slightest peck or pressure on the platform where the bait is most bounteously spread brings down the wire and net 
with a snap, and the little creature is secured without harm.

Our next illustration shows another method of constructing the platform. It should be about three or four inches 
square, and on the middle of one of its edges the upright catch piece should be fastened. This piece, as will be 
seen in our engraving, should be cut spreading at the bottom so as to admit of being secured to the platform by two
brads, the tip being cut to a point. The total length of this piece should not be over two and a half inches. When 
tacked in place, a third brad should be inserted between the other two and exactly in the centre of the side of the 
platform. This latter brad is to act as the pivot, or hinge, and should project about a quarter of an inch, as seen at 
(a). On the opposite edge of the platform another larger brad should be driven, having its end filed to a blunt point, 
as in (b). If the filing would be too tedious, a plug of hard wood of the required shape would answer every purpose. 

The upright props which support the platform should be cut of thin wood. Let one be an inch and a half long and 
half an inch wide, the other being an inch in length. Each should have one end whittled to a point, which will admit of
its being inserted in a gimlet hole in the bottom of the trap. These gimlet holes should be made at least half an inch 
in depth. Make the first at about an inch or so from the back of the trap. Into this insert the shorter pieces, broadside
front. Lay the pivot brad of the platform on the top of this piece and insert over it a small wire staple, as seen at (a).

Elevate the platform evenly and determine the spot for the other gimlet hole, which should be directly beneath the 
point of the filed brad. Be sure that it is in the middle of the board, so that the platform may set squarely, and be 
perfectly parallel with the sides. Insert the remaining prop in its place, and the platform is complete. The 
overhanging spindle now requires a little attention. This should be whittled off on each side, bringing it to a point at 
the tip. On each side of the spindle a long plug should then be driven into the back piece, as our illustration shows. 
These should be far enough apart to allow the spindle to pass easily between them. The setting of the trap is plainly
shown in our engraving. The spindle being lowered between the plugs is caught finely on the tip of the catch-piece. 
The blunt point at the opposite end of the platform should have a slight hollow made for it in the prop against which 
it presses. If the platform be now strewn with bait, the little machine is ready. It is certainly very simple and will be 
found very effective.

THE BOX OWL TRAP.
The use of a box trap for the capture of an owl is certainly an odd idea, but we nevertheless illustrate a contrivance 
which has been successfully used for that purpose.

The box in this case should be of the proportions shown in our engraving, and well ventilated with holes, as 
indicated. (This ventilation is, by-the-way, a good feature to introduce in all traps.) Having made or selected a 
suitable box—say, fourteen or more inches wide, provided with a cover, working on a hinge—proceed to fasten on 
the outside of the lid a loop of stiff wire, bent in the shape shown at (e). This may be fastened to the cover by 
means of small staples, or even tacks, and should project over the edge about two inches. When this is done, the lid
should be raised to the angle shown in our illustration, and the spot where the end of the wire loop touches the back
of the box should be marked and a slit cut through the wood at this place, large enough for the angle of the loop to 
pass through. Two elastics should now be fastened to the inside of the box, being secured to the bottom at the side,
and the other to the edge of the cover, as seen in the illustration. They should be sufficiently strong to draw down 
the cover quickly. The perch, or spindle, should consist of a light stick of wood, as shown at (b,) one end provided 
with a slight notch, and the other fastened to the inside of the front of the box by a string or leather hinge, (c,)
keeping the notch on the upper side of the stick. It will be now seen that by opening the cover, until the loop enters 
through the groove, and by then hooking the notch in the spindle under the loop as seen at (a) the trap will be set, 
and if properly done it will be found that a very slight weight on the spindle will set it free from the loop and let the 
cover down with swiftness.

To secure the cover in place a small tin catch should now be applied to the front edge of the box, as shown in the 
illustration. A piece of tin two inches in length by a half an inch in breadth will answer for this purpose. One end 
should be bent down half an inch at a pretty sharp angle, and the other attached by two tacks, to the edge of the 
box, in the position shown in the cut. This precaution will effectually prevent the escape of whatever bird, large or 
small, the trap may chance to secure. It is a necessary feature of the trap, as without it the elastics might be torn 
asunder and the lid thereby easily raised.

This trap may be baited in a variety of ways. As it is particularly designed for a bird trap, it is well to sprinkle the 
bottom of the box with berries, bird-seed, small insects, such as crickets, grasshoppers, etc. These latter are very 
apt to jump out, and it may be well to fasten one or two of them to the bottom with a pin through the body, just 
behind the head.

There are many kinds of birds which live almost exclusively on insects; and as this bait is of rather a lively kind, 
there is scarcely any other method to retain them in their position. A bird on approaching this trap will almost 
irresistibly alight on the perch, and if not at first, it is generally sure to do so before long. If desired, a pasteboard 
platform may be fastened on the top of the perch with small tacks, and the bait scattered upon it. This will act in the 
same manner, and might, perhaps, be a trifle more certain. We will leave it to our readers to experiment upon.

We have given this variety the name of "owl-trap," because it may be used with success in this direction. When set 
for this purpose, it should be baited with a live mouse, small rat or bird, either fastened to the bottom of the trap, if a
bird, or set in with the trap inclosing it, if a mouse. A small bird is the preferable bait, as it may be easily fastened to 
the bottom of the box by a string, and as a general thing is more sure to attract the attention of the owl by its 
chirping.

The trap should be set in an open, conspicuous spot, in the neighborhood where the owls in the night are heard to
"hoot." The chances are that the box will contain an owl on the following morning.

This bird is a very interesting and beautiful creature, and if our young reader could only catch one, and find rats 
and mice enough to keep it well fed, he would not only greatly diminish the number of rats in his neighborhood, but 
he would realize a great deal of enjoyment in watching and studying the habits of the bird.

Should it be difficult to supply the above mentioned food, raw meat will answer equally well. The bird should either 
be kept in a cage or enclosure and in the latter case, its wings will require to be clipped.

THE BOX BIRD TRAP.
Here we have another invention somewhat resembling the foregoing. Our engraving represents the arrangement of 
the parts as the trap appears when set. The box may be of almost any shape. A large sized cigar box has been used
with excellent success, and for small birds is just the thing. The cover of the box in any case should work on a hinge 
of some sort. The trap is easily made. The first thing to be done is to cut an upright slot, about two inches in length, 
through the centre of the backboard, commencing at the upper edge. To the inside centre edge of the cover a small
square strap, about four inches in length, should then be secured. It should be so adjusted as that one-half shall 
project toward the inside of the box, as seen in the illustration, and at the same time pass easily through the slot 
beneath where the cover is closed. The lid should now be supplied with elastics as described in the foregoing. Next 
in order comes the bait stick. Its shape is clearly shown in our illustration, and it may be either cut in one piece or 
consist of two parts joined together at the angle. To the long arm the bait should be attached and the upright 
portion should be just long enough to suspend the cover in a position on a line with the top of the box. The trap may
now be set, as seen in our illustration, and should be supplied with the necessary tin catch, described in the 
foregoing.

THE PENDENT BOX TRAP.
This invention is original with the author of this work, and when properly made and set will prove an excellent device 
for the capture of small birds. The general appearance of the trap, as set, is clearly shown in our illustration.

A thin wooden box is the first requisite, it should be about a foot square and six inches in depth, and supplied with a 
close fitting cover, working on hinges. The sides should then be perforated with a few auger holes for purposes of
ventilation.

Two elastics are next in order, and they should be attached to the cover and box, one on each side, as shown at (a.)
They should be drawn to a strong tension, so as to hold the cover firmly against the box.

The mechanism of the trap centres in the bait stick which differs in construction from any other described in this 
book. It should be made about the size of a lead pencil, and eleven inches or so in length, depending of course 
upon the  size of the box.

It should then be divided in two pieces by a perfectly flat cut, the longer part being six inches in length. This piece 
should be attached to the back board of the box by a small string and a tack, as shown at (c), its end being bluntly 
pointed. Its attachment should be about five inches above the bottom board, and in the exact centre of the width of 
the back.

Near the flat end of the other piece the bait consisting of a berry or other fruit, should be secured, and the further 
extremity of the stick should then be rounded to a blunt point. The trap is now easily set. Raise the lid and lift the 
long stick to the position given in the illustration. Adjust the flat end of the bait stick against that of the former, and 
allow the pressure of the lid to bear against the blunt point of the short stick at (d), as shown in the illustration, a 
straight dent being made in the cover to receive it, as also in the hack of the box for the other piece.

If properly constructed, this pressure will be sufficient to hold the sticks end to end, as our engraving represents, 
and the trap is thus set. The slightest weight on the false perch thus made will throw the parts asunder, and the 
cover closes with a snap.

The greatest difficulties in constructing the trap will be found in the bearings of the bait sticks (b), the ends of which
must be perfectly flat and join snugly, in order to hold themselves together. The box may now be suspended in a 
tree by the aid of a string at the top. The first bird that makes bold enough to alight on the perch is a sure captive, 
and is secured without harm. If desired, the elastic may be attached to the inside of the cover, extending to the back 
of the box. If the elastic in any event shows tendencies toward relaxing, the tin catch described on page 88 should 
be adjusted to the lower edge of the box to insure capture.

THE HAWK TRAP.
Our illustration represents a hawk in a sad plight. The memory of a recent feast has attracted it to the scene of 
many of its depredations: but the ingenious farmer has at last outwitted his feathered foe and brought its sanguinary 
exploits to a timely end. This trap is a "Yankee" invention and has been used with great success in many instances 
where the hawk has become a scourge to the poultry yard. The contrivance is clearly shown in an illustration, 
consisting merely of a piece of plank two feet square, set with stiff perpendicular pointed wires.

This affair was set on the ground in a conspicuous place, the board covered with grass, and the nice fat Poland hen 
which was tied to the centre proved a morsel too tempting for the hawk to resist. Hence the "fell swoop" and the fatal
consequences depicted in our illustration. The owl has also been successfully captured by the same device.

THE WILD DUCK NET.
Following will be found two examples of traps in very common use for the capture of wild ducks, and in the region of 
Chesapeake bay, immense numbers of the game are annually taken by their aid. The first is the well known net 
trap, so extensively used in nearly all countries, both for the capture of various kinds of fish as well as winged game.

Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the construction of the net, and an elaborate description is almost 
superfluous. It consists of a graduated series of hoops covered by a net work. From each a converging net extends
backward ending in a smaller hoop which is held in position by cords extending therefrom to the next larger hoop. 

The depth of these converging nets should extend backward about three or four feet from the large hoop; and the 
distance between these latter should be about five feet. The length of the net should be about twenty feet, 
terminating in a "pound" or netted enclosure, as seen in the illustration. The trap may be set on shore or in the 
water as seen. "Decoy" birds are generally used, being enclosed in the pound. When set on land the bait consisting
of corn or other grain should be spread about the entrance and through the length of the net.

It is remarkable that a duck which so easily finds its way within the netted enclosure, should be powerless to make 
its escape, but such seems to be the fact, and even a single hoop with its reflex net, has been known to secure a 
number of the game.

THE HOOK TRAP
Our second example is one which we are almost tempted to exclude on account of its cruelty, but as our volume is 
especially devoted to traps of all kinds and as this is a variety in very common use, we feel bound to give it a 
passing notice. Our illustration fully conveys its painful mode of capture, and a beach at low water is generally the 
scene of the slaughter. 

A long stout cord is first stretched across the sand and secured to a peg at each end. To this shorter lines are 
attached at intervals, each one being supplied with a fish hook baited with a piece of the tender rootstock of a 
certain water reed, of which the ducks are very fond. The main cord and lines are then imbedded in the sand, the
various baits only appearing on the surface, and the success of the device is equal to its cruelty.

THE "FOOL'S CAP" TRAP.
Of all oddities of the trap kind, there is, perhaps, no one more novel and comical than the "Fool's Cap" crow-trap, 
which forms the subject of our present illustration. Crows are by no means easy of capture in any form of trap, and 
they are generally as coy and as shrewd in their approach to a trap as they are bold in their familiarity and 
disrespect for the somber scarecrows in the com field. But this simple device will often mislead the smartest and 
shrewdest crow, and make a perfect fool of him, for it is hard to imagine a more ridiculous sight than is furnished by 
the strange antics and evolutions of a crow thus embarrassed with his head imbedded in a cap which he finds 
impossible to remove, and which he in vain endeavors to shake off by all sorts of gymnastic performance. 

The secret of the little contrivance is easily told. The cap consists of a little cone of stiff paper, about three or four 
inches in diameter at the opening. This is imbedded in the ground, up to its edge, and a few grains of corn are 
dropped into it. The inside edge of the opening is then smeared with bird-lime, a substance of which we shall speak 
hereafter.

The crow, on endeavoring to reach the corn, sinks his bill so deep in the cone as to bring the gummy substance in 
contact with the feathers of his head and neck, to which it adheres in spite of all possible efforts on the part of the 
bird to throw it off.

The cones may be made of a brownish-colored paper if they are to be placed in the earth, but of white paper when 
inserted in the snow. It is an excellent plan to insert a few of these cones in the fresh corn hills at planting season, 
as the crows are always on the watch at this time, and will be sure to partake of the tempting morsels, not dreaming 
of the result. The writer has often heard of this ingenious device, and has read of its being successfully employed in
many instances, but he has never yet had an opportunity of testing it himself. He will leave it for his readers to 
experiment upon for themselves.

BIRD LIME.
This substance so called to which we have above alluded, and which is sold in our bird marts under that name, is a 
viscid, sticky preparation, closely resembling a very thick and gummy varnish. It is astonishingly "sticky," and the
slightest quantity between the fingers will hold them together with remarkable tenacity. What its effect must be on 
the feathers of a bird can easily be imagined.

This preparation is put up in boxes of different sizes, and may be had from any of the taxidermists or bird-fanciers in
any of our large towns or cities. Should a home made article be required, an excellent substitute may be prepared 
from the inner bark of the "slippery elm." This should be gathered in the spring or early summer, cut into very small 
pieces or scraped into threads, and boiled in water sufficient to cover them until the pieces are soft and easily 
mashed. By this time the water will be pretty much boiled down, and the whole mass should then be poured into a 
mortar and beaten up, adding at the same time a few grains of wheat. When done, the paste thus made may be put
into an earthen vessel and kept. When required to be used, it should be melted or softened over the fire, adding 
goose grease or linseed oil, instead of water. When of the proper consistency it may be spread upon sticks or twigs
prepared for it, and which should afterwards be placed in the locality selected for the capture of the birds.

An excellent bird-lime may be made also from plain linseed-oil, by boiling it down until it becomes thick and gummy. 
Thick varnish either plain or mixed with oil, but always free from alcohol, also answers the purpose very well. The
limed twigs may be either set in trees or placed on poles and stuck in the ground.

If any of our readers chance to become possessed of an owl, they may look forward to grand success with their 
limed twigs. It is a well known fact in natural history that the owl is the universal enemy of nearly all our smaller birds.
And when, as often happens, a swarm of various birds are seen flying frantically from limb to limb, seeming to 
centre on a particular tree, and filling the air with their loud chirping, it may be safely concluded that some sleepy 
owl has been surprised in his day-dozing, and is being severely pecked and punished for his nightly depredations.

Profiting from this fact, the bird catcher often utilizes the owl with great success. Fastening the bird in the crotch of 
some tree, he adjusts the limed twigs on all sides, even covering the neighboring branches with the gummy 
substance.

No sooner is the owl spied by one bird than the cry is set up, and a score of foes are soon at hand, ready for battle. 
One by one they alight on the beguiling twigs, and one by one find themselves held fast. The more they flutter the 
more powerless they become, and the more securely are they held. In this way many valuable and rare birds are 
often captured.

THE HUMMING BIRD TRAP.
One of the most ingenious uses to which bird lime is said to have been applied with success, is in the capture of 
humming-birds. The lime in this instance is made simply by chewing a few grains of wheat in the mouth until a gum 
is formed. It is said that by spreading this on the inside opening of the long white lily or trumpet-creeper blossom, 
the capture of a humming-bird is almost certain, and he will never be able to leave the flower after once fairly having
entered the opening. There can be no doubt but that this is perfectly practicable, and we recommend it to our 
readers.

The object in making the bird-lime from wheat consists in the fact that this is more easily removed from the feathers 
than the other kinds.

We would not wish our readers to infer from this that a humming-bird might be captured or kept alive, for of all birds,
they are the most fragile and delicate, and would die of fright, if from nothing else. They are chiefly used for 
ornamental purposes, and may be caught in a variety of ways. A few silk nooses hung about the flowers where the 
birds are seen to frequent, will sometimes succeed in ensnaring their tiny forms.

The blow-gun is often used with good success, and the concussion from a gun loaded simply with powder, and 
aimed in the direction of the bird, will often stun it so that it will fall to the ground. If a strong stream of water be 
forced upon the little creature, as it is fluttering from flower to flower, the result is the same, as the feathers become 
so wet that it cannot fly.


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