Building Shelter on a Trapline.
Having decided upon the seat of operations, the young trappers should immediately set to work at building their 
shanties and boats. The home shanty is of the greatest importance, and should be constructed first. 

Select some flat bit of land near the water and clear it of brush wood, or other rubbish and proceed to work as 
described on page 242. A good axe is the only tool required by an experienced trapper in the construction of such 
a shanty. 

Should the trapping lines be very extensive, additional bark shanties, page 245, will require to be made at intervals 
along the line, for sleeping stations and shelters in case of storm. The professional trapper generally attends to the
building of his shanties and boats before the trapping season commences, and thus has everything in readiness for
his campaign. 

The trapping season begins in October, and everything should be in readiness at this time, so that the trappers 
may devote all their time strictly to business.

The route of the professional trapper often extends over fifty miles, and the number and weight of traps and 
provisions which these rough-and-ready individuals often carry as personal luggage is most astounding. Fifty or 
sixty pounds apiece is considered a fair burden, and they deem no one a fit physical subject for a campaign who 
cannot at least manage thirty pounds with comparative ease. The number of the trapping party generally consists 
of from two to four. A few days prior to the opening of the trapping season, the party start out, laden with their 
burden of traps and provisions, and deposit them at intervals along the line, the provisions being mainly kept in the 
"home shanty." Several trips may be necessary to complete these preparations, unless the trapping ground is 
readily accessible by wagon or boat, in which case the transportation is much easier.

The "home shanty" is generally built only when the trapping grounds are far in the wilderness, miles away from 
civilization. If the line extends from the outskirts of some town or village, such a hut may be dispensed with. It is used
principally as a storehouse for furs, provisions, ammunition, tools, and other valuables, and also serves as a point 
of rendezvous, or a home, for the trappers, one of the number being generally left in charge to "keep shanty" while 
his companions are on their tramps in search of game. If desired, a boy may be taken along for this especial 
purpose. In every case, some such guardian is very necessary, and particularly in wild districts, abounding in 
wolves and bears, as these animals have an odd trick of breaking into unguarded shanties, and often make sad 
havoc with its stores. 


THE TRAPPER'S SHELTER.
The life of the professional trapper is a life of hardship and severe exposure, and a man not only requires 
considerable courage, but also great bodily vigor, in order to combat successfully the dangers of such a wild, 
adventuresome existence. The cold and the storm not only imperil his life, but he is often exposed to the attacks of 
wild beasts. A shelter, therefore, in one form or another, becomes a necessity while it is always a decided comfort, 
in comparison to a campaign without it.

The reader will find below descriptions of the various shelters alluded to in other parts of this work, and used by 
trappers throughout the land. The most substantial of these is the log shanty, commonly known among trappers as 
the "home shanty," on account of its being constructed as the only permanent shelter on the trapping line. It is used
as a "home," a place of rendezvous, and a storehouse for provisions, furs, and other necessities and valuables. 

Other temporary shelters, known as bark shanties, are also constructed along the trapping lines at intervals of five 
or ten miles, as resting places. These we describe under the proper title.

Although, to the amateur trapper, the log shanty is not likely to become a necessity, we will nevertheless describe 
its mode of construction, in order to satisfy our more earnest and adventurous readers, who aspire to a full taste of
wild life. Our illustration gives a very clear idea of such a shanty.

THE HOME SHANTY.
It may be constructed of any size, but one of about twelve by ten feet will be found large enough for ordinary
purposes. Select straight logs, about eight inches in diameter. The whole number required will be thirty-six. Of 
these one half should be twelve feet in length and the other, ten. These should now be built up in the square form, 
on a level piece of ground, laying the ends of the logs over each other, and securing them by notches at the 
corners, so deep as to allow the edges of the logs to meet. Lay two short logs first, and continue building until all 
the thirty-six logs are used, and we will now have four symmetrical sides about six feet in height. 

The place for the door should now be selected. The uppermost log should form its upper outline, and the two sides 
should be cleanly and straightly cut with a crosscut saw. The window openings, one or more, may next be cut, 
commencing beneath the second log from the top, and taking in three beneath it. Replace the logs above, and on 
the ends of those thus cut, both in windows and doors, proceed to spike a heavy plank, driving two nails into each 
log, about five inches apart, one above the other. This will hold them firmly in place, and offer a close-fitting jam for 
the door, and neat receptacle for the window sashes, which latter may now be put in after the ordinary manner.

The gable ends should next be built upon the smaller sides of the hut. Commence by laying a long log (notched as 
before) across the top of the frame work, and about two feet inside the edge. This should of course be done on 
both sides of the hut, after which they should be overlapped at the corners with logs eight feet in length. 

Next lay two more long logs, parallel with the first two, and about a foot inside them, notching as before. The ends 
of these should be spanned with beams eight feet in length. Two more long logs are next in order—let them be one 
foot inside the last two. Overlap these with beams five feet and a half in length, and in the exact centre of these last 
pieces chop notches for a heavy log for a ridge pole. The gable outline, direct from the ridge pole to the eaves, 
should now be cut off by the aid of a sharp axe. This may be done either while the pieces are in position, or the line 
may be marked with a piece of chalk, and the logs taken down in order to accomplish it. 

The roof is now required. This should consist either of strips of bark or the rounded sides of logs split off and 
hollowed into troughs. The latter method is preferable, on account of its greater strength and durability, but the 
bark will answer the purpose very well, and is much more easily obtained. The manner of adjusting the roof pieces 
is clearly shown in our illustration. The first row is laid on with the hollow side up, securing them at top and bottom 
by nails driven through each into the ridge pole and eaves-log, care being taken that one of these pieces projects 
well over the gable, on both ends of the hut. These pieces are now overlapped by the second row, and with the 
addition of the large piece which covers them all at the ridge pole, the roof is complete, and will stand a heavy ram 
with little or no leaking. The crevices should now be stopped with moss, dried grass or clay, after which the log 
cabin is complete. 

When the bark roof is made, additional poles may be inserted beneath as props. They should be three or four 
inches in diameter, and run parallel with the ridge pole, at intervals on the slope, notches being cut to secure them.

Our engraving represents a chimney, which may be constructed if desired, but the necessity of this may be done 
away with by using a small camp stove, and making a small opening in the gable end of the hut for the passage of 
the pipe. If it stove should not be at hand, and our amateur should decide to "rough it" to the full extent, he may 
build his fire-place and chimney as follows: 

It will be necessary to cut away an opening in the logs at the gable end, as was done for the door and windows. 
This should be about three feet square, and the fire place should be built of stone and clay, or cement, to fill the 
opening, and project inside the hut. The chimney may then be built up outside in the same manner, sufficiently high 
to overtop the gables.

Inside the hut overhead will be found abundant room for the hanging of the skins, and any number of cross-poles 
may be rested across the beams. There are facilities for the swinging of a hammock, if desired, and, in fact, a hut
constructed like the foregoing is a perfect one in its way. There are other methods of building a log cabin, but we 
will content ourselves with what we consider the best way of all, and pass on to the ...

BARK SHANTY.
This is made by first driving into the ground two forked poles seven or eight feet in height and stout enough to 
sustain a ridge pole of moderate size. Against this ridge pole other poles should be rested at intervals of two feet, 
and sloping to the angle of forty-five degrees. The frame-work thus formed should now be covered with bark, 
commencing at the ground and allowing the edge of each piece to overlap the one beneath after the manner of 
shingles, in order to shed the rain in case of storm. Spruce or birch bark are excellent for this purpose, and the 
pieces may be secured with nails, and kept flat by the weight of another series of poles rested against them. The 
sides of the shelter should be treated similarly, the front being usually left open to face the fire, which the trapper
generally builds a few feet distant. In constructing a bark shanty, it is well to select some spot protected from the 
wind, close to the foot of a mountain or in the midst of trees, always letting the open side face the direction most 
sheltered.

If desired, the front can be enclosed after the manner of the sides and top, but this is not required where the fire is 
used. This style of shelter is represented in our page title to this section, and certainly looks very comfortable.

TENTS.
Shanties like the foregoing are in general use among the old veteran trappers of all countries, and even to the 
amateur there is a charm in a shelter constructed from the rude materials of the woods which the portable tents do 
not possess.

Tents, however, are much used both by professionals and amateurs, and are indeed valuable acquisitions to the
trapper's outfit, and where time is valuable, do away with the labor which the construction of a hut or shanty 
involves. Tents are of several kinds. Those most commonly used by the trapper are the house-tent, fly-tent, and 
half-tent, or shelter-tent.

The first of these is made for prop-poles and a ridge pole, closed on one end and buttoning up at the other. The 
sides are perpendicular for two or three feet, before the slope commences, and the stay-ropes are fastened to the 
eaves.

The fly-tent is generally a large, square piece of canvas, with ropes extending from opposite sides. This is thrown 
over a ridge pole, or over a rope extending between two trees, and the sides are held to the proper slope by 
tightening and pegging the side ropes to the ground. Fly-tents are also made with ends, which can be lowered, and 
the whole tent may be pegged close to the ground.

The shelter-tent, when erected, resembles, in general shape, the bark shanty already described. It consists of a 
strip of canvas, having each end cut off to a point. The tent is pitched over three slanting poles, and the ends are 
brought down and securely pegged. This is clearly shown in our illustration.

We do not propose giving any extended directions for making tents, as they are a staple article of trade, and, as a 
general thing, can be bought for a figure which would render their domestic manufacture of little saving or profit. 
The shelter tent, however, is so useful an affair, and withal so very simple made, that we will give a few directions in 
regard to its manufacture. It should be made from stout cotton drilling, or very heavy sheeting. Let the piece be 
about thirteen feet in length by six in width. Each end of the piece should now be cut to a rectangular point, 
commencing to cut at a distance of three feet from each corner. In order to render the cloth waterproof, it should 
now be dipped in a pail containing a solution of equal parts of alum and sugar of lead, a couple of handfuls of each,
in tepid water. It should be allowed to remain several minutes in soak, being dipped and turned occasionally, after 
which it should be spread out to dry. This treatment not only renders the cloth impervious to rain, but the alum 
tends to make it fire-proof also. A spark from the fire falling upon a tent thus prepared, will often rest upon the cloth 
until it goes out, without doing the slightest damage.

The manner of pitching the tent has already been alluded to, and is clear from our illustration. The poles should be 
three or four in number, and seven feet in length, inserted in the ground at the angle denoted. The two outside 
poles should be seven feet apart, and the intermediate ones equally disposed. The tent piece should now be laid 
over the poles, and the ends brought down and pegged to the ground at the apex, and rear corners of each side 
through loops, which should have been previously attached to these parts. A tent, thus arranged, affords a safe
shelter from the wind or a moderate storm, and with a bright fire in front, is warm and comfortable.

BEDS AND BEDDING.
Many a trapper does away with these commodities, merely rolling himself in a blanket and using his arm for a pillow;
but we do not propose to encourage or recommend any such half-way comfort as this, when by a very little labor a
portable bed can be prepared on which the weary hunter can rest as serenely as if slumbering on the congenial 
softness of a hair mattress. A bed of this kind we illustrate, and it can be made in the following manner: 

Procure a large piece of canvas, sacking or other strong, coarse material six and a half feet square. If a single 
piece of this size cannot be found, several parts may he sewed together to the required dimensions. After which two
opposite sides should be firmly stitched together, thus forming a bottomless bag, if we may be allowed to use the 
expression. 

Two stout poles seven or eight feet in length and as large as the wrist should now be cut. Insert them through the 
bag, allowing the ends to project equally on each side. These ends should now be rested on two logs, one placed 
across each end of the canvas. In order to hold the poles in place notches should be cut in the logs at such 
distances as will draw the bag to its full width. The interior of the canvas should now be filled with dried grass, 
leaves, moss or spruce boughs, after which the bedstead and bed is complete.

The yielding elasticity of the poles and the softness of the warm filling in the bag, give the effect of a spring and 
straw mattress combined, lifting the sleeper above the cold, damp ground, and by the addition of a blanket above, 
insuring warmth on all sides. If the logs are not at hand four forked stakes may be used, driving them firmly into the 
ground at such distances as will draw the bag to its full width, when the poles are rested upon them. If by the weight 
of the body the forked props should tend to incline towards each other this trouble may be easily remedied by 
inserting short poles as braces between them. 

If desired a bed of this kind may be used as a hammock and hung in a tree without much trouble. It is only 
necessary to secure the long poles firmly at their full width by a stout brace pole at the ends, letting the latter be 
deeply notched at the tips in order to receive the bed supports. The joints should then be tightly bound with stout
twine in order to prevent slipping, after which the bed may be hung in mid-air by ropes at each end, and the tired 
trapper may swing himself to sleep with perfect comfort and safety. For this purpose the ropes should be attached 
at the joints, using a loop of six feet for each end. In the centre of this loop a small one should be made by doubling
the rope and winding twine about it, leaving only a small aperture. Through these small loops, by the aid of other 
ropes, the bed is attached to the tree. By using this precaution the unpleasant experience of being turned or 
dumped out of bed will be impossible. For bed clothes a woolen blanket should always be carried, and if convenient 
a large bag of thick Canton flannel is a most excellent acquisition.

Bags of this sort are in common use among amateur trappers, hunters and camping parties, and are very warm 
and comfortable. They should be nearly seven feet in length and of a "loose, easy fit." With one of these 
contrivances it is impossible to "kick the clothes off" and the warmth is continual instead of "intermittent," and even 
on the bare ground it is said to be sufficient protection. Hammocks are also in very general use, but we can 
confidently recommend the suspended bed above described as decidedly preferable.

There are various kinds of hammocks in the market, from the light fibered silk, weighing only a few ounces, to the 
large corded variety of several pounds weight and capable of holding many persons. They are an established 
article of trade, and as the details of their manufacture would be of little practical use to the reader, we will leave 
them without further consideration. They can be had at almost any sporting emporium, at comparatively small cost.

TENT CARPETING.
We have described a most excellent contrivance for a bedstead and recommend its use whenever possible; but 
when the bed is desired to be made on the ground the following method is usually employed, by which the whole
interior of the tent, hut or shanty is carpeted with a soft, even covering of green.

Spruce or hemlock boughs are generally used, and should be from the tips of the branches where the wood is not 
too large. Commence at the back part of the shelter, and lay down a row of the boughs with the butt of the branch 
towards the front. Overlap these with another nearer row and continue the operation, laying the evergreen as 
evenly as possible until the whole interior is smoothly covered. The projecting ends at the front, should now be 
secured by the weight of a medium sized log, or by a pole pegged down firmly at intervals. A similar log should now 
be laid at the back portion of the shelter over the tips of the boughs after which the bed is complete, and will be 
found easy and comfortable in proportion to the care and skill shown in its construction. A blanket should be thrown
over the boughs before reclining to rest, as the fresh green gives forth considerable dampness.

If possible a rubber blanket should be used for this purpose. These consist of thick Canton flannel, coated on one 
side with Indian rubber, and are used with the rubber side down. They are warm and comfortable, and a valuable
acquisition to the trapper's outfit. There is a thinner and cheaper variety, having equal water-proof qualities but 
which does not possess the warmth of the former. Either will be found useful.

End of Excerpt.
This (complete) title is available in the SSRsi Survival Library

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