While most dealers buy ready made strings from bow or string manufacturers, some make their own to improve profits or to get the customer's string replaced quickly when a particular size isn't in stock. Customer's needs for special bowstrings may demand that you learn to custom make the string that serves those needs. If so, or if you are just one of those do-it-yourself types of dealers, this article is for you.

There are many good ways of making and serving a bowstring. The method outlined in the following pages is the one I use for all my own strings. I trust it to give me the best strings that can be made, either by hand or by machine. Follow it and you'll get a good string and improve customer satisfaction, too.

The String's Purpose

The job of the bowstring is twofold. First it must transfer energy from the archer's arms and back muscles to the limbs of the bow. Next, it must transfer that same energy from the limbs to the arrow. This energy transfer gives the arrow speed and direction.

So the string's job is much like that of the baseball bat, hockey stick, or golf club. It acts as a facilitator to transfer energy. And it must do it repeatedly with a very high degree of consistency for a long period of time or it's no good to anyone.

The string you build must have the proper protective coverings, called servings, in the proper places, so that excessive wear won't damage it. Your string must also have the correct number of strands to match your nocks and draw weight, and it must be the correct length. The center serving must be the correct diameter so that your arrow nocks snap easily on and off allowing accurate shooting. Paying close attention to all these details will help you build a reliable bowstring and keep the customer happy.

Choosing Your Material

Today there are several choices of materials for making your own strings. One is a material called Dyneema, which is marketed by several companies; BCY Fibers calls their most recent version DynaFlight 97. The other common material is a blend of vectran and dyneema; the BCY version is called 450 Premium.

Both materials work well and each has their strong point. The pure dyneema string has a high resistance to abrasion, but under extremely high loads does creep in length. The blended material doesn't stretch at all but does fray a little after moderate use.

Choose according to the purpose your customer has in mind. If the string is going to be placed on a big cam then use the blended material. If the archer doesn't have a big cam bow and plans to shoot all year long, try the pure dyneema material to avoid the fraying. Many string builders are happy using the various materials from Brownell & Company, originator of Fast Flight S4, and at the 1998 AMO Show had an even newer material out, Fast Flight 2000.

Any string material can be twisted to increase strength or to decrease the length of the string. Shortening the string to adjust the draw length on the compound bow is a common adjustment, just don't try to shorten the string more than a quarter of an inch. Also, remember that shortening the string on a recurve bow will increase it's draw weight.

How Many Strands?

The number of strands you need on a bowstring depends on the peak weight of the bow and the nock size used. High peak weight requires more strands, but more strands require wider nock throats so a compromise must be struck. Both the draw weight and nock fit must be satisfied through the choosing of the number of strands and the size of the center serving material. If your customer's nocks don't fit properly then you might lose him due to poor arrow flight and bad groups.

Usually a 14 or 16 strand DynaFlight string, which should fit a 9/32 inch nock, is used on a 50 to 60 pound bow. The same nock can be used on a 12 or 14 strand 450 Premium string with good results since this material has a slightly larger diameter. I use 12 strands of DynaFlight or 10 strands of 450

Premium for my ACC nocks with the .088 inch throat slot. I have to add two strands to shoot the Uni nocks on large aluminum arrows.

Most compound bows with cam-shaped wheels require strings with more strands. The added strength helps to withstand the extra forces that a cam applies to the string. Be sure that the nocks used on the string fit without being tight.

Regardless of the number of strands that you choose, select the nock size that fits the string properly. Proper fit will allow you to pull the arrow off of the string using two fingers and only a slight tug on the arrow. If the nock fits too tight poor flight and bad groups are the result.

Measuring String Length

The length of your bowstring should have been stated in the manufacturers specifications literature that came with the bow. If you don't have that literature then remove the string from the bow and measure it from tip to tip. This length is the stretched length of your string and not necessarily the length of the string when it was manufactured. It may have been x to x inch shorter when it was made since some strings stretch a little when first put on the bow or it may have been twisted lots of times and is now shorter than when it was made.

If you have no specs available and the old string is broken then place the bow in your bow press and bend it until the approximate axle to axle distance is reached. Judge this by other bows with similar handle and limb length. Use a piece of string to make a model bow sting then measure your model. Test the new string you make after step two of the building process by putting it on the bow to see if it is the appropriate length. If not you haven't lost a lot of time and material, and can start over.

The Building Process

The building process is as follows:

Step 1: Layout, The strands that form the string are looped around four posts and the ends are tied fast.

Step 2: Loop serving, The end loops of the string are formed by serving a 2 to 3 inch section on each end of the string.

Step3: End serving, The loops are closed by placing the string on two posts and serving all strands for 4 to 12 inches.

Step 4: Center Serving, The center section where the nock is placed is served while the string is on the bow to insure tightness.

The String Jig

Like any job, building a bowstring can be done when the proper tools are used. In this case a good string jig is required to get good results. The jig need not be expensive but it does need to be strong enough to stay in place while being used.

As mentioned earlier, four posts or pins are required to build a string. These posts must be stationed the correct distance apart so that the finished string will be the desired length. The posts must be movable so they can be stationed in line, as well as in rectangular formation.

Commercial string jigs will probably do the best job. Look for a jig that is made of metal, is easy to adjust and is not too large to store. The ends should pivot on axles which can be locked into the positions needed for string making.

Step One: String Layout

Begin the layout of the bowstring by clamping the string jig to a tabletop so that it does not move during the string making procedure. Now position the four pins of the jig so they form a straight line (figure 1). Set the distance between the outer pins to match the length of the string you wish to make.

At this point you must remember to make any compensation in length for the stretching of the string after it is installed on the bow or for the twists you may want to add. Maybe the jig you have allows the jig pins to pull closer together as you wrap string around them and you have to add a little length to the initial setting. Here experience will tell you what to do. Keep that in mind as you learn to make strings. Keep notes of how far apart you set the pins for each string you make and the string's finished length.

Rotate the crossbars containing the pins of the jig 90 degrees (figure 2). This will allow them to form a rectangle about which the loops of the string may be wrapped.

Begin by fastening the end of the bowstring material you have chosen to pin A. A clove hitch knot works well. Now wrap the first strand around pins B,C, D and back to pin A. This completes your first loop. Continue making loops like this until you have the number you want. Remember, 10 loops will fold together to make a twenty strand string (my example in this case). You may need a different number of strands for your string or cables so proceed accordingly.

When you have completed the number of loops you desire, tie the end of the last loop to pin B. Leave several inches extra and cut.

Step Two: The End Loop

Without moving the jig pins, wrap two inches of serving on either end; that is between pins A & B and between pins C & D (figure 3). Two inches is sufficient to make a one inch loop on a finished string. Be careful to serve in the middle of each section or, as I do it, start 2 inches from pin A on one end and 2 inches from pin C on the other then when you reset the jug for step three the served portions will be at exact opposite ends.

The size of the loop depends on the method by which the string is hooked to the bow. Recurve bow limb-tips require a bigger 1 to 1 1/2 inch loop. Steel cable anchors require a loop length of x to 1 inch (figure 4). A small loop of x inch can be used on strings that attach directly to a pin on the compound eccentric wheel.

The loops and ends of your strings and cables should be served with a material like BCY Polygrip serving thread or BCY #2-D serving. These materials take a beating and stay in place.

Use a good serving tool with tension control to wrap the serving thread around the ten strands between two of the end pins of the jig. The tension should be tight enough so that the ten strands want to twist around once or twice as the serving tool is rotated around them. Experience is the best guide when it comes to tension setting. Keep that in mind as you make your first few strings.

The Actual Serving Process

Begin between pins A and B. Place the end of the serving thread between the strands of the bowstring about two inches from pin A. Now serve toward B and over top of that loose end for about x inch before pulling the end until it is snug. Trim off any excess and continue serving until you have 1 +/- inches of serving.

The finish of the serving can be done using only the serving tool if you follow the steps outlined in the January 1998 issue of ArrowTrade.

Step Three: The End Serving

The end serving completes the loop and adds a protective wrap to the last 4 to 12 inches of the string depending on how much of the string wraps around the wheel. To do this the jig pins must be placed in-line. In fact, only the two inside pins need to be used to stretch the string into a 20 strand string.

The two inches of loop serving installed on either end should each be hooked around a pin. Be sure to stretch the string tight before locking the jig in position. It's not only easier but better to serve over a tight string.

Using the same serving thread and method as before, begin serving at the ends of the loop serving. Some people like to overlap some of the loop serving. Some people like to overlap some of the loop serving as an added protection. After some experimenting, you can decide for yourself which method you like best. I prefer to serve over about x inch of the loop servings to take advantage of the extra protection (figure 5).

Strings for recurve bows need about 3 inches of end serving while compound strings need quite a bit more. The strings and cables for a compound wrap around the wheel and require 4 to 12 inches of end serving. The exact amount depends upon the eccentric wheel size you are using. Nine inches works well for my 2 inch wheels. Smaller wheels will require less while most big cams take more.

The finish steps are the same as described in the previous issue. In fact, any time you want to finish a segment of serving or repair a loose end, use those steps.

Step Four: The Center Serving

The center of the bowstring should be served with either monofilament or Polygrip braided serving thread. I use monofilament in size #18 or #20. A 12 strand DynaFlight string with #18 mono serving will fit the ACC .088 nock well. #20 mono is thicker and will require nocks with wider throat sizes as will strings of more strands.

Install the string on the bow before doing the center serving. Once again, follow the instructions in last issue's Dealer Workbench.

I recommend at least 3 inches of serving above the nocking point (figure 6). This will prevent the serving from slipping up the string under the pressure of your fingers or release aid. Eight or nine inches of center serving should be sufficient to protect the string where it may rub your arm or cable guard.

Peep & Nocking Point Installation

When you have completed the center serving install your customer's peep sight and nocking point locator. A good starting location for the nocking point is ? inch above the level of the arrow rest. This will allow the bottom of the arrow to sit level when it is mounted on the string and rest.

Shooting from 40 or 50 yards will help you determine best shooting location for your customer's nocking point. Moving it up or down on the string and testing shooting for groups will show you which location is best for that person and that bow. Other people may end up with a different location because they may hold and aim their bow differently.

Note: Larry Wise and ArrowTrade have graciously allowed us to use this article for our website and as instructions with our string jig. Larry's books are available from Larry Wise Archery, RR#3, Box 678 Mifflintown, PA 17059 for $11.95 + $1.50 S & H. Titles available are Tuning Your Compound Bow, Tuning and Silencing Your Bowhunting System, Tuning and Shooting Your 3-D Arrow: A Complete Guide. Larry is also available to conduct one and two day CoreArchery Acadamies on shooting form. Contact him via e-mail at larrywise@acsworld.net, or write to the address above.

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