Boat Building.

Where trapping is carried on along the banks of the lakes aid rivers, a boat of some kind becomes almost a positive
necessity. The following examples represent those in most general use. Perhaps the most common form of the 
"rough and ready" order of boats, is that called the...

"DUG-OUT," OR LOG CANOE.
It's general appearance is well indicated by the accompanying illustration.

With the proper tools, one of these canoes is easily made. A sharp axe, an adze, a shaving knife, a round edged
adze, and a small auger, are principally necessary; and a cross-cut saw, broadaxe, sledge, and large sized chisel, 
will also be found useful.

In any case the log should not be much less than two feet in diameter, perfectly sound, and free from knots. If this 
precaution is observed, the result will be all the more satisfactory, and the canoe can be cut so thin, as to render it
a light burden; being easily carried on the shoulders.

A pine log is generally chosen for a dugout, on account of the lightness of the wood, and the ease with which it can 
be worked. Butternut, cottonwood and whitewood, are also excellent, and indeed almost any sound log of large size 
will answer the purpose.

For a dug-out of good size, the log should be ten or more feet in length. The first thing to be done is to cut a flat 
surface on one side of the log, from end to end. This indicates the bottom of the canoe. On the upper side the 
wood should hewn away, in the curve shown on the upper outline of our illustration.

It is well to divide the log by notches into three equal lengths. In the centre division, the wood may be cut down to a 
straight line to a depth of about eight inches from the upper surface. The gradual curve to the bow and stern of the 
canoe should start from each end of this flat cut, and extend to the upper edge of the log, the guiding line being
made on the sides of the log by a piece of chalk. The adze will come into good use in trimming off the wood on 
these curves. When this upper outline is accomplished, the log may be turned bottom side up, and the sides of the 
extremities rounded off. This may be done with an axe and adze, and when performed, the bottom curves should be
made by chopping away the wood in the curves shown in the lower outline of our illustration. This curve should also 
be marked out with chalk, and should commence a little nearer the end of the log than the curve on the upper side. 
Shave off the wood to a blunt edge on this curve, at both bow and stern. The rough form of the canoe is now 
obtained, and by the aid of the drawknife, or shaving-knife, it can be neatly and smoothly finished.

It is then ready to be "dug-out." The tools most useful for this purpose are the adze and axe, and sometimes the 
sledge and chisel. The digging out is of course the most tedious part; but with sharp tools it is a comparatively easy 
matter. When the great bulk of the wood is taken out, the interior should be finished with a howel or round adze; 
and the sides may be worked to one inch and a half in thickness if desired. The writer once saw one of these 
canoes of most exquisite workmanship, being only one inch in thickness, and so light as to be easily lifted with one 
hand. Of course such perfection as this is not necessary for ordinary purposes ; although where the canoe is 
expected to be carried any great distance, it is well to thin it as much as possible. A gimlet or small auger may be 
used to gauge the thickness of the canoe, using it in the following manner: Supposing the required thickness of the
wood is two inches, proceed to bore the hole from the inside of the canoe, and continue until the point of the gimlet
or auger barely makes its appearance on the outside. Draw out the tool, and if the thickness measures more than 
is required, insert into the hole a slender piece of wood exactly two inches in length; push it in as far as it will go, 
and you may safely work until you reach the end of it. By this method the thickness may be gauged in different parts
of the boat sufficiently to acquire a fair average thickness, and there is no danger of cutting through. The gimlet 
should be allowed to extend outside of the canoe only sufficiently to be detected, and the holes thus made will 
seldom give any trouble as leaks. If, however, this should be the case, a little putty or pitch will remedy the difficulty.

The "dug-out" may be constructed of any size, and of any desired shape, but the above is the usual type. When 
leaks or cracks occur, they may be caulked with hemp, and smeared with pitch, which will render them thoroughly 
waterproof. For lightness and portability there is no boat more desirable or more unique than ...

THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE.
Where the white birch grows in perfection, and the trees attain a large size, the chief material of the birch bark 
canoe is at hand; and although we ordinary mortals could not be expected to attain to that perfection of skill which 
the Indians exhibit in the manufacture of these canoes, we nevertheless can succeed sufficiently well to answer all 
practical purposes. The Indian canoes are often perfect marvels of skill and combined strength and lightness. 

These half-civilized beings seem to take as naturally to the making of these commodities, as if it were almost an 
hereditary habit with them; and few men, even with the most exhaustive practice, can compete with the Indian in the 
combined result of strength, lightness, durability, external beauty, and nicety of work, which are the united 
characteristics of the typical bark canoe.

The average length of the "Bark," as used by trappers, is about twelve feet, but they may be constructed of any 
desired dimensions, to the length of forty feet. A canoe of this size will carry fifteen or twenty persons, and may be 
transported with ease upon the shoulders of two strong men. The smaller size, above mentioned, is capable of 
carrying two persons, and is a light load for a single man.

In constructing the bark canoe the first requisite is the gunwale, or upper framework. This should consist of four 
strips of cedar, ash, or other light, strong wood; two for each side of the boat. For an ordinary sized canoe, their 
length should be about twelve feet, width one inch, and thickness one-quarter of an inch. They should be tied 
together in pairs at the ends, and the two pairs then joined at the same place. The object of these pieces is to give 
strength and form to the canoe, and to offer a firm security for the edges of the bark, which are secured between 
them. The gunwale being prepared, we are now ready for the birch bark. 

The bottom of a well made canoe should be in one large piece, as our illustration indicates, if possible. Select some 
large tree with the trunk free from knots or excrescences. Mark off as great a length as possible, and chop a 
straight cut in the bark through the whole length of the piece, after which it should be carefully peeled from the 
wood. It will sometimes happen, where large birches exist in perfection, that a single piece may be found of sufficient
size for a whole canoe, but this is rather exceptional, and the bottom is generally pieced out, as seen in our 
drawing. This piecing may be accomplished with an awl and Indian twine, or by the aid of a large needle threaded
with the same, sewing with an over-and-over stitch around the edge of each piece. Use as large pieces as are 
attainable, and continue to sew them on until the area of bark measures about four and a half feet in width by 
twelve feet in length, the dark colored sides of the bark all facing the same way. 

Next select a flat piece of ground, and mark off a distance of ten feet, or two feet less than the length of the 
gunwales. At each end of the space two tall stakes should be driven into the ground about three inches apart. Now 
turn the bark on the ground with its white side uppermost, and fold it loosely and evenly through the long centre. In 
this folded condition it should now be lifted by the upper edge and set between the stakes. There will then be about 
a foot of projecting bark beyond each pair of stakes. These ends should now be covered by folding another piece 
of bark over them, sewing the edges firmly to the sides of the rude form of the canoe, which now presents itself. 

When this is done, each end should be supported on a log or stone; this will cause the bottom line to sink 
downwards at about the proper curve. We are now ready for the gunwale. Lay it in the proper position, fitting the 
edges of the bark between the two strips on each side, and sewing around the whole with a winding stitch, exactly 
after the manner of the edge of an ordinary palm-leaf fan. 

The inside of the canoe should now be lined with long strips of cedar running through the entire length of the boat if 
possible, but if not, should be so cut as to neatly overlap at the ends. These pieces should be an inch or two in 
width, and from a quarter to half an inch-in thickness. The ribs are then to be put in. These are generally made from 
ash, one or two inches in width, and a quarter of an inch in thickness. Any light flexible wood will answer the purpose,
and even barrel hoops when attainable will do very well.

These ribs should be bent to fit the interior of the canoe crosswise, either close together, or with equal distances
between them and the ends should then be firmly secured beneath the gunwales by a continuous loop-stitch 
through the bark. For a canoe of twelve feet in length, the width should be about two feet, and in order to keep the 
gunwales firm, two or more crosspieces should be inserted, and lashed firmly at their ends as our illustration shows. 

The centre third of the length of the canoe should be parallel at the sides, and if two braces, two feet in length are 
placed at each end of this third, the shape will be about perfect. We now have a bark canoe of considerable
strength and durability, and, it only awaits to be made water-proof for final use. In order to accomplish this all the 
seams outside, and the entire interior of the canoe should, be smeared with pitch, after which its floating qualities 
may be tested with confidence. Should any leaks occur their whereabouts are easily detected, and an additional 
application of pitch will remedy the difficulty. 

The Indians in sewing their bark canoes use tamarack roots, fibrous plants, and grasses, in lieu of thread, and even
with these inferior materials often attain to such perfection in compact sewing, as to render the use of pitch 
unnecessary for water-proof purposes. Such skill is rarely attained by the white man, and the art of making a
water-proof canoe, even out of a single piece of bark, is by no means an easy task without the aid of tar or pitch.

For the trapper we strongly recommend the birch "bark." With the above directions we are sure no one could go 
astray, and we are equally sure that a canoe made as we describe, would present advantages of lightness and 
portability which no other style of boat would possess. For temporary purposes, canoes can be made from 
basswood, hemlock, or spruce bark; but they are at best, very rude and clumsy in comparison with the birch bark.
They are generally made after the principles of the above described; either sewing or nailing the edges of the bark 
together, and smearing every joint and seam profusely with pitch, and adding gunwales, lining, and ribs.

A LIGHT HOME-MADE BOAT.
The following gives an easy method of making a light and serviceable bateau, which any boy, with moderate 
ingenuity or skill, could easily construct: 

Select two boards, about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, eighteen or twenty inches in width, and twelve feet 
in length, which we will consider the required length of the boat. These boards should be well seasoned, and free 
from knots, and at least one of the sides should be straight. 

Next, with the aid of a draw-shave, proceed to shape the ends of one of the boards, as seen on our diagram, (e) 
representing the forward, (g) the stern. The curve of the bow should commence at about four feet from the end, 
and take a rounded slope upward, leaving about ten inches of width at the end of the board (e). The stern should 
be cut at the angle shown at (g), commencing at about two and a half feet from the extremity of the board and 
continuing upward to about ten inches from the upper edge. The board thus shaped should now be laid evenly on 
the other, and the outline of the cut portions carefully scratched upon it, after which the second board should be
cut in a similar manner as the first, so as to form an exact duplicate.

This being accomplished, the two should be laid evenly, one over the other, and the exact center of their long 
edges ascertained. Marking off about five inches on each side of this centre on both boards. Next procure another 
board about ten inches in width, three feet in length, and perfectly squared at the ends. Nail each end of this piece 
securely and squarely in the space marked on each of the long boards. Then turn the pieces carefully over and nail
another board across the bottom, directly opposite the first. We will now leave them and give our attention to the 
bow piece, which is the next requisite.

This is shown at (a), and consists of a solid piece of oak, or other hard wood, well seasoned, and hewn out in the 
arrow shape, indicated in our illustration. It should first be cut three-cornered, the inside face being about eight 
inches, and the other two ten inches. Its length should be about eleven inches, and its under side should be sloped 
off on a line with the under curve of the bows. At about five inches from the inner face, and on each side, a piece 
should be sawn out, one inch in thickness, thus leaving on each side a notch which will exactly receive the side-
boards of the boat, as seen at (a).

The piece being thus ready, the bow ends of the boards should be drawn together, fitted in the notches and 
securely spiked with large nails. A bow piece of this kind adds greatly to the strength of a boat, and will stand much 
rough usage. The board for the stern should next be prepared. This should be ten inches in width and two feet in 
length, and should be securely nailed between the ends of the boards at the stern, as shown at (g) being 
afterwards over-lapped on the top by a board of similar size, as our illustration shows, at (c). The bottom of the 
boat is now easily made by nailing boards crosswise, sawing off the projecting ends close to the curve of the side-
boards. 

After the pieces are all nailed in place, the seams and crevices should be caulked with hemp, using a blunt chisel, 
or hard wooden wedge, and a mallet. The seats should now be put in, as these are not only a matter of comfort, but
of necessity, acting as braces to the sides of the boat. They should be two in number, one being placed three feet 
from the stern and the other one foot beyond the brace board originally nailed across the top of the boat. The seats
should be cut at the ends in a curve corresponding to the part of the boat in which they are placed, and should be 
situated about a foot from the bottom of the boat, their ends resting on short boards beneath them against the 
sides of the boat. These are indicated by the dotted lines (h h) in the diagram. When thus resting they should be 
securely fastened in place by strong screws, driven through the sides of the boat into their ends (f f), allowing
some one to sit on the seat meanwhile to keep it in place. 

Small cleats should now be tacked to the bottom of the boat, beneath the seat and underneath the seat itself, in 
order to keep the props in place; after which the original brace board across the top of the boat may be knocked off
and the bateau is complete and ready for service. A boat thus made is quite comely in shape, and may be painted 
to suit the fancy. Should a rudder be required, the broad board at the stern offers a good place of attachment, and 
oar-locks may be adjusted at the proper places. These may consist of a pair of cleats attached to the inside of the 
boat, as seen in the illustration. 

In case it may be found difficult to obtain the large single boards for the sides of the boat, two or more narrow ones 
will answer the purpose, although not as perfectly. In this case they should first be firmly attached together by 
cleats, securely screwed to the inside. When first put on the water the boat will probably leak in places, but if left to
soak for a few hours the wood will generally swell sufficiently to completely close the crevices. If, however, the leak 
should continue, that particular part of the boat should be re-caulked and smeared with pitch. This latter substance
is of great value to the trapper, not only in boat building but in the construction of his shanties and in other various
ways. It will most effectually stop almost any leak in a canoe or boat, and of course should always be applied hot.

THE SCOW.
The bateau we have above described is built so as to allow for considerable speed in the water, either in rowing or 
sculling; but where this speed is not especially desired the pointed bows may be dispensed with, and the sides of
the boat made perfectly straight. In this case the bottom takes equal slopes at the ends, and both bow and stern 
are of the same width, and an ordinary flat-bottomed boat with parallel sides is the result. 

In many cases a scow of this kind answers every purpose, and is certainly much more easily made. We have thus 
described a few of the most common instances of boats used by trappers, and with our full description and 
illustrations no one can go astray. A boat of some kind is almost an indispensable requisite to the trapper, and any 
one of the foregoing will be found sufficient for all ordinary purposes. A paddle may be used, and in shallow or 
muddy water a pusher or mud-stick will be found useful. This should consist of a pole seven or eight feet in length, 
supplied at the ends with an attachment of the shape of the letter U. This may be constructed in two pieces, firmly 
screwed to opposite sides of the end of the pole, and so formed as to present a curved crotch. Such a stick will be 
found very useful for pushing through weeds and muddy places. A simple pole trimmed so as to leave a crotch at 
the end will also answer the purpose very well.

End of Excerpt.
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