The Survivalist Pledge:

To help all that can be helped,
To defend all that can be defended,
To save all that can be saved,
To free all that seek freedom,
To stay alive as long as I can and stay free as long as I live.

Following the recent San Francisco earthquake, many people living outside California were surprised to discover that THEY lived in an earthquake-prone area as well. The series of faults that could cause such quakes weave across most the US. Washington state and northern Oregon are blanketed by areas periodically hit by quakes; a severe fault lies at the north central area of Washington and extends upward into Alaska. Other major faults lie under the western side of California and in western Nevada. Minor--or major--quakes are possible all through California, Nevada, much of southwestern Montana, Idaho, and Utah. Yet another great fault stretches from the southeast end of Missouri, into southern Illinois and northeastern Arkansas, with a western sliver lying in Tennessee. And this fault is surrounded by an area of potential minor-damage quakes radiating outward slightly to the west, northward into the center of Illinois and eastward to cover Tennessee, South Carolina, and the northern portions of Mississippi, Alabama, and Georgia.

They are still more...

Another group of potential minor earthquakes encompass most of Oklahoma, eastern Kansas, parts of eastern Nebraska, parts of southwestern Iowa, and a portion of northwestern Missouri. More spread along the Rockies from New Mexico northward through Colorado and into South Dakota and parts of Wyoming; New England is covered by an area of mild earthquakes; much of Ohio and eastern Michigan are in jeopardy; and Hawaii is located in an area where earthquakes can occur.

The bottom line: anybody living in the major population centers of Anchorage, Seattle/Tacoma, Honolulu, Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, Memphis, St. Louis, San Diego, Buffalo, Rochester, Charleston, or Boston could be facing devastating a serious earthquake in the future. (About the only "safe houses" in the US are to be found in Texas, Florida, North Dakota, Minnesota, and Wisconsin.) These earthquakes could be pretty serious in terms of money and life. California's Division of Mines and Geology estimated an earthquake of 7.5 on the Richter scale across the bay from San Francisco would kill 4,000 people and severely injure an additional 12,000 people. According to the estimate, the "walking wounded" would probably number as high as 132,000. The airports in the area would be closed due to damage to runways. Bridges and roads would be out of commission, and the telephone and electrical system would be inoperable as well. Remember that this is in an area that has PREPARED for such an earthquake. Needless to say, a similar quake elsewhere would be considerably worse.

In 1985, FEMA (the Federal Emergency Management Agency) did a study that concluded that a 7.6 quake in Memphis ALONE would cause up to 2,500 deaths, destroy 3,000 buildings, cause $25 billion of damage, and displace 250,000 people. Damage in outlying areas would add to this toll. It would seem probable that a similar earthquake in New York state or other areas might actually bankrupt many insurance agencies nationwide. Furthermore, city or even state governments might go under if the Federal government didn't intervene. While government officials don't care to talk about it "on the record", the likelihood of looting and other crimes which would go unchecked in such an area make it likely that it will be an "every man for himself" situation for many survivors. (A word to the wise!)

So what can you do to minimize the damage to your home, positions, and--most importantly--your family? The most important thing you can do is to get your neighbors. Closely-knit "communities" where people know each other always fair better than areas where everyone is a stranger. Individuals in close-knit communities care about what others think (or are fearful of being identified during a crime) so they are more apt to help out and behave in an acceptable manner. People are more apt to pitch in to help if they know you. They won't stand by while your house is stripped by looters, they'll know how many people are living at your house if you need to be dug out by rescuers... You get the idea. It HELPS your survival chances immensely if you are in good terms with your neighbors and in an area where people care about their neighborhood. (Unfortunately, FEMA and local civil defense workers in the US currently don't encourage people to organize to minimize risks and damage during an earthquake or other disaster.) That said, what are some SPECIFIC things you need to do to protect your home.

First off, you should remember that some homes and buildings are more earthquake resistant than others. Living in a house that's more resistant will improve your chances of getting through a severe earthquake with minimal risks; living in a home that's poorly designed will increase the likelihood of damage or injury. To determine which type of house you're living in, start by inspecting the foundation. The foundation is the most important part of your home during an earthquake: If it comes apart, the rest of the house is going to have problems staying together. The best foundations are concrete (cement with steel bars for reinforcement). If the foundation is made of stones, cement blocks, or other materials united by mortar, then you're going to see serious breakage during an earthquake because these materials will be coming apart.

Fortunately, a poor foundation can be strengthened OR replaced.

Replacement is not as expensive and complicated as one might think. The house is raised on special jacks, the old foundation removed, and a new concrete foundation constructed underneath. (This can even be done while you live in the house though the heating, water, and/or sewer service may have to be discontinued while this is being done). Getting the foundation replaced can be done by a construction company. You should contact several for estimates and references before having the work done. (You may also wish to consider having your basement enlarged and have a shelter put in if you get such work done.) It's sometimes possible to replace foundations a section at a time without jacking up the house. But this doesn't save much money over having it jacked up. Another option is to reinforce some foundations by pouring a new concrete wall inside the old one. When you have a strong foundation, your next consideration is to be sure your house is attached to its foundation during an earthquake.

Many homes made before the 1950s (or even the 1960s in some areas with poor building codes) do not have their frames anchored to their foundations. And some crooked contractors still leave the frame unattached--so be sure to check. The way to determine this is to check for half-inch expansion bolts mounted into the concrete and extending into the frame every few feet. You can determine if your home has these by looking at an exposed area in a basement or crawl space where the frame and foundation meet. As you look, the bolts should be readily apparent. If you don't have the expansion bolt attachment, you can "upgrade" your home. Attaching the frame to the foundation can be done retroactively with metal strapping attached to the frame and foundation to connect the two. While this is best left to a construction company, some do-it-yourselfers may wish to rent the tools necessary for the job and do it themselves. Don't do a half-way job; be sure to contact local building inspectors or an architect to determine how much strapping you need to use, size of bolts, etc.

Those living in a mobile or pre-fab home should also be sure their homes are placed on reinforced foundations. Mobile homes should be mounted on foundations or piers made of reinforced concrete AND have cables anchoring them into the ground with pier systems. And with either foundation, it's essential of course that the frame of the mobile home be securely attached to the concrete pier or foundation. Some houses have heavy exterior facings and facades which can be quite dangerous since they will break off during an earthquake. The best way to prevent this is to CONSTRUCT it properly in the first place. Stucco finishes should be mounted over paper and attached to plywood nailed onto framing. Another way to do this is to install the stucco in HEAVY wire that's securely attached to the house frame.

The current building practice of placing paper over frame studs and stuccoing over the paper should be avoided. This creates a very weak surface that will crack apart during a quake. For maximum strength of stucco or other exteriors, the inner gypsum (sheetrock) surface should be placed over a layer of 1/4-inch or thicker plywood. These plywood sheets should be attached directly to the frame. This, coupled with the exterior plywood sheeting, creates a very durable frame structure. If you already have stucco in place, consider having it removed and a new siding placed on the home.

Short masonry facades can be anchored in place when a home is being built. Taller facades are a problem to anchor because of their weight and they're also are especially dangerous--they're best removed if in place or avoided if you're thinking about adding one. Shorter facades may be capable of being anchored to the frame with long bolts (though the esthetics of such modifications may leave a little to be desired). When building, Short brick and shaped stone facades can be anchored to a house's exterior by using "ties" or brackets that are embedded in the mortar as stones or bricks are being laid. The ties should be nailed to a plywood facing fastened to the frame of the building. The metal strap ties should be spaced every few feet every few courses of bricks. Needless to say, brick houses are nearly impossible to make earthquake proof; where frame houses flex, brick houses disintegrate. Go with a brick "look" of siding if you must, but don't use real bricks or you may not survive an earthquake. Fireplaces of concrete, stone, or bricks, are almost always unreinforced and dangerous during earthquakes. Then, they'll come crashing down with disastrous results. Whenever possible, get a fireplace made of steel rather than stone or bricks. Tile roofs are also dangerous since they tend to collapse during an earthquake. Avoid them in earthquake zones. The tile "look" is possible with metal roofing with tile patterns embossed on it; a baked enamel finish completes the illusion. One source for these metal roofs is Met-Tile, Incorporated, P. O. Box 4268, Ontario, CA 91761. (Colors include white sandstone, ranchwood brown, gallery blue, and morocco red.) Cinder block structures are also quite dangerous IF they haven't been filed with "posts" of reinforced concrete poured into inner cavities throughout the structure. Determining whether this has been done isn't easy--hire an expert. If you're building a cinder block house, be sure it's reinforced. It's also possible to reinforce cinder block walls with a fiberglass-impregnated cement mixture sold as "Quickwall" (available through a contractor or lumber supply store).

You should also give thought to WHERE your house is. This is because secondary dangers are created by quakes. If you're situated in an area of the country where mud slides or rock slides are common, then you need to be careful to avoid placing your home on or below a hill where a slide might occur since these can be triggered by earthquakes. Likewise, you don't want to be too close to a beach; an offshore quake might cause a tidal wave. Also look out for dams, snow slides, rock slides, etc., which may be triggered by an earthquake. If you're house shopping, obtain topographical maps (available at local libraries) and check into the placement of rivers and land elevations to check for flood plains.

Earthquakes rupture water and gas pipes. So it's good to know how to turn off the water and gas entering your house.

The gas valve leading to your home is normally located on the gas meter (it's a small "I"-shaped stud). Turning the valve a quarter of a turn will shut off the gas going to your home. Remember that gas leaks create an explosion and fire hazard.

Don't switch on flashlights without a spark protector on them, don't smoke, etc., or you may blow yourself up! In a pinch, a pipe wrench or other tool can be used to turn off the gas. A better aluminum tool designed specifically for turning off the gas from the meter is available from Nitro-Pak (11018 E. Rosecrans Ave., Suite #300, Norwalk, CA 90650) for just $5.

The water valve leading into a house is normally located near the water meter. This valve can also be turned off with many household tools in a pinch but it's better to purchase the tool you need BEFORE an earthquake. You may also discover that simply turning off the shut-off valve in the house will take care of the problem. (It's wise to do this anyway since it keeps the water in your home's pipes available for use and keeps contaminated water from entering your house.)

Electrical power will probably be off following a major quake. But it's wise to shut it off so it won't come on unexpectedly while you're working in your home. Be sure to turn off the main junction box. Most homes have a main circuit panel located outside in addition to the fuse or circuit breaker box indoors. Be sure you know where these panels are so you can turn off the electricity from inside or outside.

Fires following an earthquake are quite dangerous since water pressure will be low (if existent) and fire engines will be unable to travel over many roads. Consequently, be prepared to fight any fire IMMEDIATELY following a quake. The sooner it is out, the less apt it is to become major. Purchase several fire extinguishers then learn how to operate them.

Damage to household goods can be minimized with proper precautions. This is especially important since many home-owners insurance policies don't cover earthquake damage. (You might want to check to prevent getting an ugly shock. If you're covered, take photos of the interior of your home and especially expensive possessions. Then store them in a safe deposit box.) Anchor large appliances which might easily tip over to the walls. This is especially important to do with hot water heaters and refrigerators. This can be easily done with a hot water heater. Use metal strapping which is readily available from construction supply companies or lumber yards. Bolt it to the wall on either side of a hot water heating. (You can usually rent the drill and bit necessary to make the necessary holes in concrete if you need to do so.) Refrigerators are harder to anchor since esthetics are a consideration and you often need to clean behind the appliance, move it, etc. Metal flanges on the back may be used to secure bolts to the appliance. If you're fortunate enough to have a refrigerator with these, use them to anchor the appliance to a wall stud. Other refrigerators will require more work. When improvising a solution, be careful to allow adequate clearance around the heat-exchange grid of the refrigerator.

Things on shelves frequently are shaken off during an earthquake, leading to damage, breakage, and injury. The first line of defense is to be sure the shelf is anchored to the wall; free-standing shelves should have a nail or screw placed in the wall stud behind them and then a wire and screw used to attach the shelving in place. Sometimes it's possible to add a small lip to the edges of shelves. Another route is to use the "gum" tacks designed for mounting posters to walls; these are ideal for small objects (but won't work with larger objects).

Another strategy is to rearrange the "stuff" on shelves so the more breakable items are closer to the floor; this won't eliminate breakage, but it minimizes damage. Heavier objects should also go on lower shelves to keep them from injuring someone. Aquariums, statuary, vases, pictures hung over couches or beds, wall mirrors, and so on can all cause grave injuries. Be sure such objects are fastened in place and don't put them over areas where people are likely to be sitting or sleeping. The bathroom presents special problems since those in it are often barefoot. Shampoos or medication in glass bottles should be replaced by similar products in plastic containers. Try to position medicine cabinets so they aren't over tubs. Secure cabinets with "child proof" locks--these help keep contents in during an earthquake. Large curio or china cabinets, etageres, etc., are prone to toppling over during a quake. If at all possible, anchor these to the wall stud using a metal bracket or heavy wire and screws. China, crystal, or other breakable items should be kept in cabinets with "child proof" fasteners which tend to stay closed during an earthquake. The strategy of keeping heavier and more breakable items on lower shelves is also good here. And be cautious in opening drawers and cabinets after a quake. Doing so slowly and while watching what is happening will enable you to keep contents from tumbling out and causing more breakage.

Home shops and garages are full of dangerous tools and chemicals. Glass bottles of pesticides, solvents, paints, or even gasoline are all disastrous during an earthquake. Witches brews of dangerous chemicals can be formed when these bottles break. Whenever possible, avoid glass containers for any liquid in your garage or shop. Use metal storage cabinets WITH locking doors to secure glass containers. Be sure to anchor cabinets to wall studs in the shop as well. Heavy tools should be securely mounted to tables and walls or situated on tables or workbenches that aren't prone to tipping. Larger power tools should again be placed on lower shelves or in child-proof drawers that will retain the tools during an earth tremor. All drawers should have tabs on them so they can't slide completely out. Buckets of paint, dry wall mud, or other heavy supplies should be stored close to the floor. Open shelves can have a light wire strong over fronts to secure containers and tools. With a little thought, you'll be able to minimize damage to your home during an earthquake and improve your family's chances of sustaining only minimal damage.

 

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