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Preface
The growing interest entertained by the American public in reference
to the subjects mainly treated upon in the volume now before the reader, is
deemed a sufficient apology for its appearance. The late act of our National
Legislature in the annexation of Texas, bringing with it, as it does, a very
considerable portion of the Province of Santa Fe, together with the existing
hostilities between our own and the Republic of Mexico, preparing the way
for a no distant acquisition of the Californias, not to mention the recent agitation
of the American claim to the whole of Oregon, as yet scarcely subsided,
has directed the attention of most minds more than usually towards the affairs
and condition of the Great West—particularly that section of it contiguous
to the Rocky Mountains. But, although our newspapers teem with
professed descriptions of those countries embraced within its limits, and
are redundant with animadversions upon their admitted importance—while
the ambitious politician prates of them learnedly, and quotes by the day
from fugitive paragraphs of doubful verity, gleaned here and there as
chance may favor him—a palpable ignorance is evinced throughout in regard
to a vast store of interesting particulars.
To fill up in some measure this wide vacuum of general information, is
the author's object in his present undertaking. With this view he has endeavored
to present a full and comprehensive picture of the real condition
of regions so attractive as are the above, and in so doing he is conscious of
having erred in no important particular. Whatever is affirmed, may be
relied upon as matter of fact, while details of a questionable nature may
be inferred from the guarded language in which they are expressed. So
far as his personal knowledge is concerned, he has spoken without reserve; but information based upon second-hand authority, is given as such.
The catalogue of facts relative to the manner in which the fur trade is
conducted, and the enormities chargeable upon the individuals engaged in
it, may be objected to as unnecessarily minute; but, regarded, as it should
be, as one of the explanatory causes of Indian degradation, it will hardly
fail to secure a ready acquiescence from the reader. Justice to the "red
man" demands only a rehearsal of the simple truth, that condemnation may
be awarded to the doubly guilty.
The narrative of the Texan expedition sent against New Mexico in the
spring of 1843, with its mishaps, and conflicts with the Mexicans and Indians,
added to a statement of its surrender to the U. S. Dragoons, and the
causes which led to its final dispersion, will doubtless claim attention, as
being the only account of it hitherto published.
In his notes of travel it has been the author's endeavor to avoid prolixity; and, while his acting motto has been to say as much as possible in a few
words, he has not withheld full descriptions of the various scenes and countries
that met his view during his lengthy excursion. He is well aware
that his style is partially deficient in the ease and gracefulness peculiar to Fome writers; but here he would offer no apology—it is his own, and for
it he neither asks the favor of critics nor expects their lenity.
Fully persuaded that a work of this kind will prove acceptable at the
present time, the author would fain believe the public in general are more
regardful of its intrinsic merits than of the garb in which it appears, and
with these observations he is content to abide the result.
New-York, July, 1846.
CONTENTS CHAPTER I. Objects of a proposed excursion. Primary plans and movements. A Digression. Rendezvous for Oregon emigrants and Santa Fe traders. Sensations on a first visit to the border Prairies. Frontier Indians. CHAPTER II. Preparations for leaving. Scenes at Camp. Things as they appeared. Simplicity of mountaineers. Sleep in the open air. Character, habits, and costume of mountaineers. Heterogeneous ingredients of Company. The commandant. En route. Comical exhibition and adventure with a Spanish company. Grouse. Elm Grove. A storm. Santa Fe traders. Indian battle. CHAPTER III. The Pottowatomies. Crossing the Wakarousha. Adventure at the Springs. The Caw chief. Kansas river and Indians. Pleading for whiskey. Hickory timber. Prairie tea. Scenes at the N. Fork of Blue. Wild honey. Return party. Mountaineers in California. Adventure with a buffalo. Indian atrocities. Liquor and the Fur Trade. Strict guard. High prices. CHAPTER IV. Country from the frontiers to Big Blue; its geological character, &c. Novel cure for fever and ague. Indian trails. Game. Large rabbits. Antelope, and their peculiarities. Beaver cuttings. Big Blue and its vicinity. Dangerous country. Pawnee bravery. Night-alarm, (Prairies on fire.) Platte river. Predominant characteristics of the Grand Prairies, and theory explanative of of their phenomenon. Something to laugh at. "Big Jim" and the antelope. CHAPTER V. Deserted camp. Big Jim's third attempt as a hunter. Buffalo and other particulars. Big Jim lying guard. Butchering. Strange selections. Extraordinary eating, and excellence of buffalo meat. Brady's Island. The murderer's fate. Substitute for wood. A storm. Game in camp. Strange infatuation. Tenacity of buffalo to life, and how to hunt them. Cross S. Fork of Platte. Big Jim's fourth adventure. CHAPTER VI. Ash creek. Pawnee and Sioux battle-ground. Bread-root. The Eagle's Nest. Mad wolf. Number and variety of prairie wolves,—their sagacity. Mad bull. Making and curing meat. Big Jim still unfortunate. Johnson's creek. McFarlan's Castle. Deceptiveness of distances. Express from the Fort. Brave Bear. Bull Tail. Talk with the Indians. Speech of Marto-cogershne. Reply. Tahtungah-sana's address. CHAPTER VII. The Chimney. A bet. Spur of the Rocky Mountains. Scott's Bluff. Romantic scenery. Mimic city. A pyramid. A monument. An elevated garden. Mountain sheep. An Eden. Death in camp. The wanderer's grave. Horse creek and gold. Goche's hole. Arrival at Fort Platte. Remarks by the way. Prairie travel. Locality and description of the Fort. Indian lodges. Migratory habits of mountain and prairie tribes. Scenes at Fort. Drunken Indians. Tragical event. Indian funeral. Speech of Etespahuska on the death of his father. CHAPTER VIII. Coast clear, and Trade opened. More visitors. Smoking out the natives. Incident illustrative of Indian character. Expeditions for trade. Black Hills. Rawhide. An Indian and a buffalo chase. Deep snow, extreme cold, and painful journey. L'eau-qui-court. Remarks. Lost. White river; its valley, fruits, and game. Building site. The Devil's Tea-pot. Troubles with Indians. Theft and its punishment. Indian soldiers. Christmas extras. Outrageous conduct. Rascality of traders. "That Old Serpent." Indian superstition, religious tenets and practices. Notions upon general morality. CHAPTER IX. Dangers connected with the liquor trade. Difficulty with Bull Eagle. Scenes of bloodshed and horror. Cheating in the fur trade. How the red man becomes tutored in vice. A chief's daughter offered in exchange for liquor. Indian mode of courtship and marriage. Squaws an article of traffic. Divorce. Plurality of wives. CHAPTER X. Tahtunga-egoniska. High gaming. Weur-sena Warkpollo, a strange story. The Death Song, a tale of love. Medicine- men. Extraordinary performance of Tahtunga-mobellu. Wonderful feats of jugglery. CHAPTER XI. Food for horses. Squaws and their performances. Dogs and dog-meat. Return to Fort. Starvation. Travel by guess. Death from drinking. Medicine-making. A Burial. Little Lodge and the French trader. A speech in council. Journey to White river. High winds and snow. Intense sufferings and painful results. CHAPTER XII. Another drunken spree. Horses devoured by wolves. An upset. A blowing up. Daring feat of wolves. A girl offered for liquor. Winter on the Platte. Boat building. Hunting expedition. Journey up the Platte. Island camp. Narrow escape. Snow storm. Warm Spring. Pass of the Platte into the prairies. A valley. Bitter Cottonwood. Indian forts. Wild fruit. Rootdigging. Cherry tea and its uses. Geology of the country. Soils, grasses, herbs, plants, and purity of atmosphere. Horse-shoe creek. A panther. Prairie dogs and their peculiarities. CHAPTER XIII. The Creek valley. The Platte as a mountain stream. Canon. Romantic prospect. Comical bear story. Perilous encounter with a wounded bull. Geological remarks. Division of party. Safety of spring travel. La Bonte's creek. Remarks by the way. Service-berry. Deer Creek. General observations. Moccasin making. Box-elder. Bear killed. Excellence of its flesh. Different kinds of bears in Oregon and the mountains. The grizzly bear, his nature and habits. CHAPTER XIV. Desperate encounter with a grizzly bear, and extraordinary instance of suffering. Close contest. A comical incident. Cross Platte. Canon camp. Sage trees. Mountain sheep, and all about them. Independence Rock; why so called, and description of it. Devil's Gate. Landscape scenery. CHAPTER XV. Return route. Oregon trail from Independence Rock through the South Pass. Cross the Sweet Water and Platte. Mountain Fowl. Journey up Medicine Bow. Dangerous country. A fight with the Sioux. The "Carcague." A surprise. Visit to the Crow village. Number and character of the Crow nation. Selling a prisoner for tobacco. Description of Laramie Plains. CHAPTER XVI. Sibille's-hole. Novel bitters. Chugwater. Gold. Curiosity. Affairs at the Fort. Amusements. Gambling among squaws, and games played. Squaw dresses, and riding fashion. Items of interest to the curious, proving the intercourse of the ancient Romans with the people of this continent. CHAPTER XVII. Singular exhibition of natural affection. Embark for the States. Scarcity of provisions and consequent hardship and suffering. Extraordinary daring of wolves. Difficulties of navigation. Novel diet. Fishing. A fish story, and another to match it. A bull story. Hard aground and dismal situation. Extreme exposure. Cold, hungry, and wet. Again afloat. Re- supply of provisions. Camp on fire. A picture of Platte navigation. Country north of river. Adventure with a bull. Indian benevolence. Summary of hardships and deprivations. Abandon voyage. CHAPTER XVIII. Hunting excursion. Thirst more painful than hunger. Geological observations. Mournful casualty. Sad scene of sepulture. Melancholy night. Voyage in an empty boat. Ruins of a Pawnee village at Cedar Bluff Plover creek. Cache Grove. Thousand Islands. Abandon boat. Exploring company. A horrible situation. Agony to torment. Pawnee village. Exemplary benevolence of an Indian chief. Miserable fourth of July. Four days' starvation. Arrival at Council Bluff. Proceed to Independence. CHAPTER XIX. The country between the Pawnee village and Bellevieu, and from that to Fort Leavenworth. Leave Independence for the Mountains. Meet Pawnees. Indian hospitality. Journey up the South Fork Platte. Fort Grove. Beaver creek. Bijou. Chabonard's camp. Country described. Medicine Lodge. The Cheyenne; their character and history. Arrive at Fort Lancaster. Different localities in its neighborhood. Fatal Duel. Ruins. CHAPTER XX. Old acquaintances. Indian murders. Mode of travelling in a dangerous country Mexican traders. Summary way of teaching manners. Fort Lancaster and surrounding country. Resume journey. Cherry creek and connecting observations. Sketch of the Arapahos, their country, character, &c. Camp of free traders. Blackfoot camp. Daugherty's creek. Observations relative to the Divide. Mexican cupidity. Strange visitors. The lone travelers. Arrive at the Arkansas. General remarks. Curious specimens of cacti. Fontaine qui Bouit, or Natural Soda fountain. Indian superstition. Enchanting scenery. Extraordinary wall of sandstone. CHAPTER XXI. Vicinity of the Arkansas. Settlement. The Pueblo. Rio San Carlos, its valleys and scenery. Shooting by moonlight. Taos. Review of the country travelled over. Taos; its vicinity, scenery, and mines. Ranches and Rancheros. Mexican houses; their domestic economy, and filth. Abject poverty and deplorable condition of the lower classes of Mexicans, with a general review of their character, and some of the causes contributing to their present degradation. The Pueblo Indians and their strange notions. Ancient temple. Character of the Pueblos. Journey to the Uintah river, and observations by the way. Taos Utahs, Pa-utahs, Uintah and Lake Utahs. The Diggers; misery of their situation, strange mode of lying, with a sketch of their character. The Navijos; their civilization, hostility to Spaniards, ludicrous barbarity, bravery, &c., with a sketch of their country, and why they are less favorable to the whites than formerly. CHAPTER XXII. Uintah trade. Snake Indians; their country and character. Description of Upper California. The Eastern Section. Great Salt Lake and circumjacent country. Desert. Digger country, and regions south. Fertility of soil. Prevailing rock and minerals. Abundance of wild fruit, grain, and game. Valley of the Colorado. Magnificent scenery. Valleys of the Uintah and other rivers. Vicinity of the Gila. Face of the country, soil &c. Sweet spots. Mildness of climate, and its healthiness. The natives. Sparsity of inhabitants. No government. All about the Colorado and Gila rivers. Abundance of fish. Trade in pearl oyster-shells. Practicable routes from the United States. CHAPTER XXIII. Minerals. Western California. The Sacramento and contiguous regions. Principal rivers. Fish. Commercial advantages. Bay of San Francisco. Other Bays and Harbors. Description of the country; territory northwest of the Sacramento; Tlamath Mountains; California range and its vicinity; southern parts; timber, river-bottoms; Valleys of Sacramento, del Plumas, and Tulare; their extent, fertility, timber, and fruit; wild grain and clover, spontaneous; wonderful fecundity of soil, and its products; the productions, climate, rains, and dews; geological and mineralogical character; face of the country; its water; its healthiness; game; superabundance of cattle, horses, and sheep, their prices, &c; beasts of prey; the inhabitants, who; Indians, their character and condition; Capital of the Province, with other towns; advantages of San Francisco; inland settlements; foreigners and Mexicans; Government; its full military strength. Remarks. CHAPTER XXIV. Visitors at Uintah. Adventures of a trapping party. The Munchies, or white Indians; some account of them. Amusements at rendezvous. Mysterious city, and attempts at its exploration,—speculation relative to its inhabitants. Leave for Fort Hall. Camp at Bear river. Boundary between the U. States and Mexico. Green valleys, &c. Country en route. Brown's-hole. Geological observations. Soda, Beer, and Steamboat springs; their peculiarities. Minerals. Valley of Bear river; its fertility, timber, and abundance of wild fruit. Buffalo berries. Superior advantages of this section. Mineral tar. CHAPTER XXV. Fort Hall; its history, and locality. Information relative to Oregon. Boundaries and extent of the territory. Its rivers and lakes, with a concise description of them severally. Abundance and variety of fish and water-fowl. Harbors and islands. Oregon as a whole; its mountains and geographical divisions. Eastern Division; its wild scenery, valleys, soil, and timber; volcanic ravages; country between Clarke's river and the Columbia. North of the Columbia; its general character. Middle Division; its valleys, prairies, highlands, and forests. Western Division; a beautiful country; extensive valleys of extraordinary fertility; productive plains; abundance of timber, its astonishing size and variety. A brief summary of facts. CHAPTER XXVI. Climate of Oregon; its variableness; its rains; a southern climate in a northern latitude. Productiveness; grain, fruits, and flowers, wild and cultivated. Geological characteristics. Soils and prevailing rock. Minerals, &c. Variety of game. Wolves. Horses, and other domestic animals. Population, white and native; Indian tribes, their character and condition. Missionary stations, and their improvements. Present trade of Oregon. Posts of the Hudson Bay Company. Settlements. Oregon City, its situation and advantages; about Linnton; about Wallammette valley, Fualitine plains and Umpqua river; Vancouvre, and its superior advantages. Kindness of Hudson Bay Company to settlers. CHAPTER XVII. The manufacturing facilities of Oregon. Commercial and agricultural advantages reviewed. Rail Road to the Pacific. Route, mode of travelling, and requisite equipment for emigrants. Importance of Oregon to the United States. Incident in the early history of Fort Hall. Why the Blackfeet are hostile, and bright spots in their character. Mild weather. Leave for the Platte. Journey to the Yampah, and sketch of the intermediate country. New Park. Head of Grand river. The landscape. Different routes to Fort Lancaster. Old Park. CHAPTER XXVIII. From Grand river to Bayou Salade. Observations by the way. Description of the Bayou. Voracity of magpies. Journey to Cherry creek. Country en route. Crystal creek. Abundance of game. Antelope hunting. Remarkable sagacity of wolves. Snow storms and amusement. Ravens. Move camp. Comfortable winter quarters. Animal food conducive to general health and longevity. A laughable instance of sound sleeping. Astonishing wolfine rapacity. Beaver lodges and all about beaver. Hunting excursion. Vasques' creek, its valleys, table lands, mountains, and prairies. Camp. Left alone. Sensations, and care to avoid danger. A nocturnal visitor. Thrilling adventure and narrow escape. A lofty specimen of "gettin down stairs." Geological statistics. CHAPTER XXIX. Return to the Fort, Texan recruiting officer. New plans. Volunteer. The Chance Shot, or Special Providence. Texan camp. Country contiguous to the Arkansas, from Fontaine qui Bouit to the Rio de las Animas. Things at rendezvous. A glance at the company. Disposal of force. March up the de las Animas. The country; Timpa valley, and its adjoining hills, to the de las Animas. The latter stream; its canon, valley and enchanting scenery. Tedious egress. Unparalleled suffering from hunger, toil, and cold. Wolf flesh and buffalo hide. Painful consequences of eating cacti. A feast of mule meat after seven days' starvation. Camp at the Taos trail. The adjacent country. Strict guard. A chase. The meet reward for treason. CHAPTER XXX. March down the Cimarone. Junction of the two divisions. Country between the de las Animas and the Cimarone. Perilous descent. Canon of the Cimarone. Soil and prevailing rock. A fort. Grandeur and sublimity of scenery. Beauty of rocks, Cimarone of the pain. Fruits and game. Widespread desolation. A dreary country. Summer on the Desert. Remarks. Encounter with Indians. Nature's nobleman. Wild horses and different modes of catching them. Failure of expected reinforcements. March into the enemy's country. Ancient engravings upon a rock. Boy in the wolf's den. A man lost. Forced march. Torment of thirst. Remarks. The lost found. Expulsion for cowardice,—its effect. CHAPTER XXXI. Mexican camp. Pursuit. Advance upon Mora. Enemy discovered. Country between the Rio de las Animas and Mora; its picturesque beauty. Admirable point of observation. Fortified position. Battle of the pass; order of attack, passage of the river, storming the enemy's camp, and number of killed, wounded and prisoners. Council of war.* Prisoners released. Message to Amijo. Return march. Mexican army. Attacked, and results of action. Mexican bravery. Retreat. Cross the Table Mountain. New species of wild onions. March down the de las Animas. Discouragements accumulate. Disband. Sketch of factions. Texan prisoners. Arrival of reinforcements. Battle of the Arroyo : killed, wounded, and prisoners. Retreat of Amijo. "Stampede." Frightful encounter with the Cumanches and Kuyawas. Discharge of troops. Affair with Capt. Cook. Surrender to U. S. Dragoons, and failure of expedition. Return to Texas. Journey to the Platte. Country between the Arkansas and Beaver creek. Feasting at camp. Crows' eggs. Lateness of season. Snow-storm in June. An Indian fort. Serio-comico adventure with a wolf. Indians. Song of the night-bird. CHAPTER XXXII. Lost. Night on the Prairie. Head of the Kansas river. Minerals. Country. Gold. Wonderful incident relative to a wounded bull. Indians. Join the Arapahos. Moving village. Country between Beaver creek and the Platte. Canon. Reach Fort Lancaster. Fortune bettered. News from the States. Murder. Extraordinary instances of human tenacity to life. Arrival of Indians. Theft. Chyenne outrage. Return of Oregon emigrants. "Old Bob," and his adventures. A "Protracted Meeting," or Indian Medicinemaking. Indian oath. Jaunt to the mountains. Mountain scenery. Camp on Thompson's creek. Wild fruits. Concentration of valleys. Romantic view. A gem in the mountains. Grand river pass. Salt lakes. Astonishing scope of vision. The black-tailed deer. Peculiarity in horses. Remarkable natural fortification. Return. Travelling by guess. CHAPTER XXXIII. Newspapers. False reports. Singular grasses. Sale of skins at Fort Lancaster. An excursion. An incident. Camp. Huge horns. Leopard. Panther. Slaughter of eagles. Dressing skins. The hunter's camp. Vasques' creek. The weather. Return of comrades to Fort. Sweets of solitude. Exposure in a snow-storm. The canon of S. Fork Platte. A ridge. A valley. Beautiful locality. Choice site for a settlement. Flowers in February. A hunting incident. Fate of the premature flowers. Adventure with a sheep. Discovered by Indians. A pleasant meeting. Camp at Crystal creek. Thoughts of home. Resolve on going. Commence journey. The caravan. "Big Timber." Country to the "Crossing." Big Salt Bottom. Flowers. A stranger of other lands. Difficulty with Indians. "Friday." Tedious travelling. No timber. Detention. Country. Pawnee Fork. Mountain and Spanish companies. Spy Buck, the Shawnee war-chief. Pawnee Fork.—Cure for a rattlesnake's bite. Further detention. Sketch of adjacent country. Pawnee Rocks. En route with Friday. Musquetoes. Observations. Friday as a hunter. CHAPTER XXXIV. The Arapaho American, a sketch of real life. Tenets of the mountain Indians in reference to a future state of rewards and punishments. The "water bull." Country between Cow creek and Council Grove. Inviting locality for settlement. Sudden rise of water. Separate routes. Dangerous travelling. Osage village. Osages, and all about them. Arrival at Van Buren, Arkansas. Concluding remarks.
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