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Introduction Nothing is more calculated to improve the mechanical arts than giving publicity to the various processes used among work men in their several trades; many have been the publications in which various receipts have been given; but in practice not a few have been found to fail, not perhaps because of themselves they were inapplicable, but owing to a want of some practical illustrations to enable the workman to ascertain, not only the proportion of the several ingredients, but the method of properly mixing them, and also the proper mode of application; another inconvenience, which, in many instances, is a complete bar to the dissemination of practical knowledge, is the expensive nature of many works in which valuable receipts are interspersed. The Cabinet Maker's Guide is; perhaps, the only work that may properly be called a Manual of the Arts, and the rapid sale which it met with, is a proof of the estimation in which it was held, though even there, much room is left for improvement, particularly in the practical application of the rules and cautions necessary to be observed to ensure success; and many subjects connected with the general plan still remain untouched: the object of the present work is to embody all that is useful in the Cabinent Maker's Guide, and adapt to practice what is there given; as well as to enlarge on the original plan, so as to make it a compendium of general practical utility. The various trades of the Cabinet Maker, Chair Maker, Japanner, Gilder, and Lackerer, are so intimately connected, that there is scarce a handsome piece of furniture where the combination of their joint efforts is not necessary; and this inconvenience, if it may be so designated, is particularly felt in country manufactories; and it is almost universally the case, that a workman in one branch is entirely ignorant of the methods used by another; for instance, the Cabinet Maker is, perhaps, generally speaking, unacquainted with the method to be used in giving his work the finishing stroke, by varnishing or gilding the several parts, which are necessary to add to the beauty of the whole: now a knowledge of how these different operations are performed, even in case it is put into other hands to finish, will enable him to leave his part in such a state that the utmost perfection will be attained by those into whose hands it is to pass for completion; the present work is therefore undertaken with a view of supplying what was thought deficient in the Cabinet Maker's Guide, and applying practical illustrations to those receipts where it was necessary either to the thorough understanding of the receipt itself, or showing on what its good or bad qualities depend. I shall conclude this introduction by pointing out the characteristics of a good workman, and give some practical rules as concerns the ascertaining the good or bad qualities of the tools necessary for the trades to which this publication is more particularly addressed; and first, it is necessary, in order to form a good mechanic, that he should strive, with unceasing assiduity, to excel in that branch to which his labours are more particularly directed; that he should study truth and accuracy in the several parts, and beauty in the finishing strokes: in order to attain these several requisites he should observe with care the several methods used by other workmen, and if he can note down the various operations that contribute to the excellence of his art, by no means to neglect it, as he will in time gain a fund of knowledge necessary in his labours; with regard to the truth and accuracy of his work, he should pay particular attention to keep his tools in proper order, for the time expended in being careful in that respect will be amply repaid by the ease and accuracy with which the several parts of his work will correspond. If careful in this respect, he will save a deal of trouble in the finishing operation, which must be conducted with great care and attention, not attempting to hurry its completion; as that, in many cases, would act in diametrical opposition to his wishes; but narrowly to observe the progress he makes, and if any accident should occur, it will mostly be soon remedied; on the contrary, if with hurry, and inattention to anything but getting the work out of his hands, it will, in many cases, cost him more labour and trouble to repair, than the whole operation would do when conducted with care; these maxims will not only conduce to make a good mechanic, but what is of as great consequence, a ready workman. With respect to choosing the tools used in the trades to which I have alluded as the most necessary, and in which all may be comprehended, are planes, saws, and chisels, and we will consider them with respect to the wood they are manufactured from, and the steel which form the cutting part of them; and first, beech is in general, and ought to be always used, for the purpose of the stocks, handles, etc., as it is of a tough texture, and not liable to split or warp so much as any other; now there are two kinds of beech, usually known by the names of black or red beech, and the white beech; the former is by far the best in every respect, and may be always known by its colour, and texture, which is darker and more hard in substance; the white is also more apt to warp, and soon wears with use; it should therefore always be rejected as improper; again, if you examine a piece of beech end-ways, you will perceive the grain runs in streaks, which among workmen, is called the beat of the wood; and in all planes this grain or beat, which is the hard fibrous particles of the wood, should run in a direction perpendicular to the face of the plane, which in that case appears full of little hard specks; whereas, if the beat runs parallel to the face, it will appear in irregular streaks, which situation of the grain should always be avoided, as the face will be apt to wear uneven, and more subject to warp and twist: again, in saw handles, and stocks for bits, the beat should run in the same direction as the saw blade, or in the same direction as the stock, when laid on its side; in moulding planes it is very frequently the case, that pieces of box arc let into that part of the face that forms the quirk of the mouldings, but that, when possible, should be avoided, as the texture of the two woods are very different, and the different temperature of the atmosphere will cause a difference in their contraction, and consequently the plane will be liable to cast: if it is at any time introduced, I would recommend only a small piece just at the mouth of the plane, firmly dove-tailed in, which will not be so apt to derange the accuracy of the plane. With respect to saws, chisels, and other edge tools, their goodness depends upon the quality of the steel, which should be uniform throughout, and it is always better to have them tempered rather too hard than soft, for use will reduce the temperature; or if at any time it is necessary to perform the operation yourself, the best method I can recommend is, to melt a sufficient quantity of lead to immerse the cutting part of the tool in; having previously brightened its surface, plunge it into the melted lead for a few minutes, till its gets sufficiently hot to melt a candle, with which rub its surface, then plunge it in again, and keep it there till the steel assumes a straw colour, but be careful not to let it turn blue; when that is the case, take it out, rub it again with the tallow, and let it cool: if it should be too soft, wipe the grease off, and repeat the process without the tallow, and when it is sufficiently hot, plunge it into cold spring water, or water and vinegar mixed; by a proper attention to these directions, and a little practice, every workman will have it in his power to give a proper temper to the tools he may use: if a saw is too hard, it may be tempered by the same means, but as it would be not only expensive, but, in many cases, impossible to do it at home, a plumber's shop is mostly at hand, where you may repeat the process when they are melting a pot of lead; but here, observe that the temper necessary is different to other cutting tools: you must wait till the steel just begins to turn blue, which is a temper that will give it more elasticity, and at the same time sufficient hardness. With respect to choosing your brushes for varnishing, it is necessary that they possess elasticity combined with softness, and that the hairs are sufficiently fixed, so that taking hold of one hair, it will not pull out or separate from the rest: the larger brushes are usually made of bristles, the smaller of camel's-hair: the former must be firmly tied to the handle, and the string well glued: the latter are best put into a tin case, and after being used must always be cleaned according to the directions given in the course of this work. By paying proper attention to these directions, and a little care, the workman will be enabled to keep his tools in order, and to select such as are proper for the purpose they are intended. G. A. S.
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